I had first planned to come this way only to visit Cività for the day, but my family in Cremona urged me to spent the night to include Orvieto. I always trust their judgement.
The regional train for Rome left Santa Maria Novella at 6.40. I always take a picture before departing, to know exactly where I am during the train trip. The time schedules ususally run true.
These regional trains make more stops but I enjoy watching the scenery. I rarely see Americans riding the trains. Being alone, I feel better taking the train, where I can ask for directions rather than driving a rental car. I'm not sure how much time a car would save. But I would love to drive if I had a companion. It would certainly allow more destination choices.
I stopped at the Edicola to buy a guide book and the nice lady suggested I buy a daypass for 14€. It was a bargain, which included two rides on the Funicolare and entrance to all the museums and Duomo.
I was feeling better about my Italian, until later I realized I had purchased two tickets. I missed something in the conversation. It's so normal and funny in the world of learning a new language. I expose my brain to daily Italian, but to speak well one must be spoken to. They ask a question here and then expect an answer in a few seconds. My brain is whirling and it feels so good.
I learned a new word: Funicolare which is cable railway. I didn't realize until I left, there were two cars in service.
It was a 20 minute walk up into the top of the town from the Funicolare. Because it was so early, most of the shops were just opening or doing their morning window cleaning.
These fresh flowers were lovely!
The Duomo was impressive. I should have reseached it beforehand. It was a wonderful surprise to come upon a whole chapel by Luca Signorelli.
I couldn't get close enough for a good picture of him but It felt personal, seeing the master himself looking down at me. Fra Angelico is just behind.
There were some church dignitaries in the piazza today, along with these armed soldiers.
I saw a group entering for a tour of the underground city 'Città sotterranea' and joined the end of the line. The guide said this tour will be in Italian, will that be ok for you. I answered yes, I would prefer Italian!
This underground city of caves was in use for 3,000 years and then was lost and forgotten until a landslide in the 1970's. My self test in Italian graded in at 60% understanding. Some phrases like 'watch your head' were as clear as English.
We saw a room of baths, including where fresh water was flowed in. A deep well with foot holds down the sides was scary. One room contained an olive oil press. They only showed us a tiny portion of this city. It was impressive with stairways, wall niches and elevated sleeping areas. Maybe I understood more than I realized!
This outside one was the only hand rail! The rest of the way up, it was very very narrow and steep. I was glad we only had to go up stairs and never down. There was plenty of light inside.
The view when exiting the underground rooms. What a contrast in color after being in the dark.
I checked into the hotel and then ventured out to see more of the historical sights. I walked down and back up without using the Funicolare.
Fascinating!! Pozzo di San Patrizio (St Patrick's Well) built by Pope Clement VII (Guilio de Medici) and finished in 1537.
He wanted to be sure there was adequate water. He fled to Orvieto during the Sack of Rome in 1527. These places make historical events come alive.
I've discovered something on this trip. Actually I knew it before, but now the tourist sights, shops, restaurants, hotels and commercialism have become a little distasteful. The money from tourists helps the economy and brings in much needed income. I am searching for something more authentic. I try to avoid tourist shops. With the exception of the chocolate shops. And bookstores.
Alessio and I had a long talk yesterday. He shares recipes with me and sends me off to their favorite forno and shops. This trip I can't bear to eat the food they serve to tourists. I was correct in tasting the difference. Alessio told me the restaurants change their menu during the high season, which just started. I eat better in my room, with goodies collected from here and there.
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