Monday, May 18, 2015

17 May -- Sunday in Firenze

I slept 11 hours last last which was a blessing. It was already 10.30 when I reached the Sunday mercato in Piazza Santo Spirito. I could see it was the Organic Market. There near the fountain, was the basket lady busy weaving.


She comes in from the countryside to this market. Because I always buy a basket, she recognized me. Her husband asked if I was British. 



I circled the market three times, looking for pictures and food. At the Forno around the corner I chose a piece of pizza and 1/2 liter of cold milk for lunch. I stood at the Santa Trinità bridge eating, and enjoyed watching the Arno River flow by, along with the Sunday rowers from the rowing club. I was lucky to once enter that club and have lunch at a table on the grass. 


Next on the agenda was purchasing train tickets for a Monday trip to Orvieto. Once at the Santa Maria Novella station, I toured the new Feltrinelli bookstore. It's full sized and includes a cafe. The station has changed over the years from being like a dingy bus station to a place where travelers passing through can feel safe and comfortable. 

I purchased round trip tickets for 30€ at the automated dispenser, which works in many languages. I tested using Italian and did fine. I wish my speaking skills were equal to my reading. Someday. 

The same man who I have seen for years, circled past me, begging in Italian. I think he must live in the station. He hasn't changed, except this time he was smoking. 


I took the short cut through Borgo San Lorenzo. The remaining peddlers were working. In the city center, all the shops which sell to tourists are open on Sundays. The new upstairs at the Mercato Centrale had big signs showing they were open. There is now a separate entrance, bypassing the lower floor which houses the meat and vegetable vendors on weekday mornings until 2.  

I walked to the San Ambrosio quartiere where I stayed when I studied here. Vestri Chocolate was closed, as was the Flea Market. Looks like I will miss the Sunday antique fair this trip. I window shopped. Many of the shops have their metal doors pulled down, making the streets looking abandoned. I enjoyed a cherry and chocolate gelato, sitting with locals as I tried to understand some conversations. 




It was 3 o'clock as I headed toward Piazza San Marco to wait for autobus 25 to Trespiano. I always have bus tickets in my wallet. It was a pleasant 20 minute ride up Via Bolognese. The hills above Firenze are green and the view back over Firenze is breathtaking. I took a picture at the cemetery to remind me of their hours. I forgot they close at 1 on Sunday. I'm sure the bus driver thought I was deranged when I re-boarded  his bus 20 minutes later on his return trip to the city. 



I bought a pastry for Monday's train trip at the bar in Piazza San Marco and strolled back toward the Duomo. I had shoe luck. Yesterday, I saw an Italian woman wearing sandals I wanted. This morning I found those same sandals while window shopping. Now I found a shop open and my shoes were in their window. Expensive sandals for 120€, but they are not made of synthetic materials and they are designed for walking. I bought them. (Yes, they were worth the money. I wore them all day Monday.)

With no destination in mind, I walked. Last night I made a mozzarella salad in my hotel room, but I had no real dish. I saw the perfect dish in a window. The cost of the dish is equal to two restaurant meals and I've saved € eating in. 


The church doors were open and only a few people were inside, so I joined them to light a candle and sit quietly. Alessandro used to study here as a young boy. 


The church shares a wall with a building that used to be a court of justice. A free exhibition was taking place to showcase local products, including theatrical wigs,    which will be displayed at Expo2015. The products were gorgeous, as was the room. It was stunning. 








The weather was warm and delicious. I walked until dark, just enjoying the air, the soft Florentine light, thinking about the past residents of this city.







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