Monday, May 25, 2015

24 May -- Cremona to Firenze


I have a long long wait here in the Santa Maria Novella stazione. It's Sunday at 1.15. My number is 406. Presently 374 is being served. It's going slowly. Thirty minutes and only two people have advanced in the queue. 

My day started great. I slept well, had my normal and favorite breakfast of focaccia and orange juice. I was mostly finished packing last night. 


I was so early getting ready, I had time to walk to the piazza and take a few pictures. Marina and Primo were preparing to also leave for Pisa. Marina has a 7am appointment with a medical specialist for her annual check-up and lab work. They will drive. 




We loaded my bag and drive to the station, which is just a few minutes away. Rosa and Primo waited for me on binario 1, for the train to Milano. They warned me there are three stops which say Milano. Luckily I've made this trip many times in the when Marta and Rosa were teenagers. 



The station at Milano Centrale has new clear signage and maps everywhere to welcome tourists to EXPO2015. Also a good presence of uniformed officers and I'm sure undercover ones too. 

The trip went quickly and was uneventful. I easily boarded the fast Freccia train bound for Napoli.  It stops in Firenze on its way south. 

Thirty minutes into the trip, when the conductor looked at my ticket, she said, 'But signoria this ticket is for tomorrow, Monday.'  My mistake!! She wrote out a new ticket for me for twice the cost, €100, which includes a healthy fine. Luckily my Italian did not fail me. 


I know what happened. At the automated ticket machine I was not careful with the calendar. I think it starts with Monday instead of Sunday. I normally only travel to Cremona on weekdays. 

On arrival at SMN I went directly to the sportello, the ticket counter. I explained the situation to a nice man, who understood every word I said. He gave me a number and I waited. It's all automated, like the post office and the phone store. An electronic board shows where four previous numbers are being serviced. There is no confusion. 

An older angry woman paced back and forth. There is no cutting in line here for anyone! Primo told me the phrase 'battere il sistemo'.  Fighting the system. That is why I often discover older people in my assigned seat on the train, he said. 

The line began to move quickly and at 2.00 I was explaining my issue again. I could have exchanged the ticket for full value for a trip (until September). The ticket was already stamped with a validation, so I had been a little worried. With my passport as identification, I was refunded 40€ on the 50€ ticket. I was happy, because it could have been worse in frustration had I not understood the language. 


There was no rain in sight so I pulled my 50 pound bag, along with my shopping bag, past Chiesa Santa Maria Novella. 




Back on my street Borgo S. Apostoli, I snapped a picture of a horse drawn carriage, one of many which are frequently passing. I wonder how much this tour costs? 


I checked back into the hotel. Alessio and Asumi presented me with a bag of food goodies. The ceci flour is a special treat which I will use to make farinata (called cecina here in Toscana). I have developed a real love for ceci (chickpeas). Alessio explained this brand of tomato salsa is their favorite. He told me they saved a piece of an eggwhite fratatta for me. I wrote the recipe!


Contents of my suitcase brought from Cremona. 


It's amazing how much time a day contains here. I get so much done. On my list for this trip is church I've passed by many times. It's right here in my neighborhood. 

With my printed notes in hand, I entered Chiesa di Santa Trinità. The doors to the churches here are not open all day long. At certain times, visitors are allowed in, and are welcome, as long as a church service is not in progress. 



This is the Sassetti Chapel. It is written that it is one of the most precious gems in Firenze. It is also complete and undamaged by time. For 50¢ the lights can be turned on to brighten the area.  




Adoration of the Shepherds by Domenico Ghirlandaio 1482 - 1485.  Stunningly beautiful. 



The fresco above, shows Ghirlandaio looking out at us. 


Higher on the fresco, Lorenzo de Medici can be seen standing next to Francesco Sassetti. The young boys being lead up the stairs by their tutor Angelo Poliziano, are the Medici children, Giovanni, Piero and Giuliano. I've loved studying this historical period of time.  It's a real thrill to see these portraits in person. 


I noticed this tomb on the map when I entered. This is the work of a Della Robbia, the family who invented the art of terra cotta colored ceramics. 





The weather has been odd this trip. Sudden storms drench us and then pass by.  The skies were clear. 


I decided on a quick trip to the market to pick up yogurt.   I bypassed the always crowded Ponte Vecchio, by crossing Ponte Santa Trinità and short cutting through the back streets. Along the way I happened upon an open garden.  It was National Garden Day and I still had time!






Using the map, I walked back down the Arno and visited two other 'gardens.' I was disapponted to find only these gravel bedded courtyards. 


I was headed in the right direction for dinner with friends, at 7pm. 


I love keeping in touch with friends and  watching the children grow. They were out waiting for me on the sidewalk.The children sort of recognize me. I'm only here twice a year.  We had a yummy dinner of pasta with homemade pesto. 




It was still light outside for the walk back to the hotel at 8.30. 




Right near Ponte Trinità is a lively nightspot which has always, over the years, used the sidewalk and river wall, as outdoor overflow area. 


Back in my room, I unwrapped babas I had purchased during my evening walk. 

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