24 November 2012 Saturday, Leonardo Pieraccioni in Firenze

Last night I went to bed at 10 pm but at 3 am I was still awake. I set my alarm for 10 am so I wouldn't sleep away Saturday. It worked out well because I was still in my room (with wifi) when Sara sent me a message. 'Leonardo Pieraccioni is going to be at a book signing at Teatro Pucinni. 17.15'. I wrote back, if that is tonight, sabato, YES!  See you there!

Happily I made my way out to look for fresh olive oil. I missed the festivities last weekend and the Mercato for Olive oil in Piazza della Repubblica. I found only a few fruit and vegetable vendors in Piazza Santo Spirito this morning. The Mercato is setup early every morning, with varying vendors. I'll just have to check early each day before school.

 As I turned to leave, a young woman approached me. In quick Italian (which I understood): "I see you 're not Italian, but would you like to buy some chocolate or a cyclamen plant to support our cause?"  I recognized the name of the Agency. They helped Alessandro when he needed assistance. I bought a terra cotta planted, pink flowered with white edges cyclamen plant €10. I knew Asumi would love it and she did! This Hotel is also their home.  I'm grateful to now count them as friends.

It wasn't easy to walk straight back to the hotel. All of Via Tornabuoni is torn up as they replace both the paving stones and underlying pipes. The completed parts are gorgeous. Yes, a gorgeous street. The street is now for pedestrians only during the day. 

Alessio gave me a look when I walked in! Hurray, more guests are checking in, here for the marathon tomorrow. After dropping off the plant I needed to find lunch. I headed straight for Borgo San Lorenzo, window shopping as I approached my destination. I can now check off my list, a new set of fall boots. I bought brown this time plus a pair of flats on sale. I always seem to find Made in Italy shoes at Bata. Their cost is reasonable, they're comfortable and they last.

I passed right through all the vendors. I was stomach growling hungry. The Mercato Vecchio is open almost all day on Saturdays and it was packed with locals. Everyone seemed to have my idea: panino di trippa. I took my place in line, 3.50€ in hand. One pays first then you take the receipt down the counter if you've ordered a panino (sandwich). For pasta of the day, you just step aside and wait for it to appear. 

 When I started in the line at 1.00 there were a dozen people ahead of me. When I finished eating the line had doubled in length. Surprising, a few Japanese tourists are here. They're foodies too! Like me they take and retake pictures before they eat. 

 I took my receipt down to the same man who has been making these sandwiches for the five years I've been ordering. It seems he recognizes me, but maybe not. When he hands me my sandwich, his eyes say, 'here is the delicious treasure you've been wanting for 6 months.'  And he is right. I ask for a spoonful of the red picante sauce along with an equal amount of the green basil sauce. For the first time I sat at the nearby tables and devoured the entire sandwich. It's an acquired taste...my Italian heart craves this poor man's food. Yes it's tripe. 

There was a nice pair of older ladies sitting across from me. They must be regulars because two trays of soup and crostini were delivered straight to the table.  The table is so beautiful...a slab of marble on an iron frame.

For dessert I knew just what I needed: a scoop of sticky candied amarena cherries.  2€ for a scoop. I could only eat five of them.  I recognized the same proprietor at this stand too. I love this dried version of amarena.  I've never seen them for sale anywhere else.

I've researched these cherries:

The Amarena cherry is a small sour dark coloured Italian cherry grown in the Bologna and Modena regions of Italy. It is usually bottled in syrup and used as a decoration on rich chocolate desserts.

The Amarena variety of cherry was developed by Gennaro Fabbri who was born in 1869 in Bologna, Italy. He started commercial production of cherry related products in 1905 under the Fabbri brand. The Fabbri company is still family owned and produces a number of natural cherry pastries, syrups and beverages.  (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amarena_cherry)

 I needed to go back to my room to sleep. I was too tired to look around the market.

On my walk back to the hotel, I stopped at two places.  The jewelers shop was closed with an iron pull down gate so I'm still ring-less until Monday. I found 3 + 3 + 3 DVD's and received a 4th free for each set. Twelve new movies, enough to last a few Friday nights. 

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After a nap, I started walking to the Teatro Pucinni at 4 pm.  

Once I tried to find that theater, but I was going by street name only, in an area behind Chiesa Santa Croce. I never found it. I asked Alessio for directions. Yes, I could walk there.  

It's down near Parco delle Cascine, an area famous for its huge Tuesday morning street market and it's the goto place to find drugs after dark. The last police mystery novel I read gave me a good education on the darker criminal aspects of the area.

Alessio showed me my route: past Chiesa Ognissanti, continuing by the piazza where Munstermann Farmacia is located and then on toward Porto Prato, one of the old city gates, down Via del Ponte alle Mosse, then a quick turn left on Via G Donizetti and right on Via Enrico Petrella. It should take 45 minutes..and it did.  

It did gave me a moment of fear because at 4.00 all the shops were shuttered and Via del Ponte alle Mosse looked deserted, like a street in a third world country. I passed by one young man who was looking over a bike, not in admiration but in how to steal it! Perhaps a drug addict. I quickly passed him by, thinking, not such a good idea to pass this way after dark, alone.  

Sara called my Italian cell phone to find me, just as I rounded the corner for the theater.  It was 5.00 and I was on time.  The event began at 5.15. After hugs with Sara and Simone, they gave me a gift I knew was coming...a cow bell from the Alps. I love bells worn by animals here. For Sara I had a Starbucks mug. See's candy for Simone. 

What a thrill to see Pieraccioni! The theater was small and filled mostly with children and preteens. He is nice. Truly nice. 

 

Pieraccioni as a child wrote. One of his films, Il Pesce Innamorato (The Fish in Love) is a little autobiographical.  It's a story about a boy who writes all through his childhood. Finally as an adult, his book is published. This evening's discussion started with clips from that film.

So, tonight's event is a typical Italian setup for discussion: three chairs on the stage, a low table in front (glasses and bottled water). All for a moderator in the middle, Pieraccioni on the left and a 12 year old boy on the right. His book is on sale, 15€ and proceeds go to a children's cancer society.  Yes, I bought one.

The boy, Filippo Torrini, has just published his first book, which he started writing at the age of nine. Each of the three have a hand held microphone. A roving man with a mic takes questions from the audience.  

Talking and discussion of ideas is a part of the culture here. It's so common, even these young children in the audience are poised and comfortable with asking questions. Schools here give exams both written and oral. I had the honor of sitting in many of Alessandro's class final exams.  

The event ended at 7.30, just in time for a normal 8.00 dinner.  Sara and Simone had plans for the rest of the evening. We got separated in the crowd, so I began walking back. I thought to take another route, but I was in very unfamiliar territory and almost got lost. So, I retraced my steps back the way I had come and was surprised to find many of the shops un-shuttered and open.

 I had pleasant walk home, stopping for a quick dinner of ravioli and a dessert.

At 10 pm, I was ready to try to sleep.  I put my new bell on my night-stand and drifted off to dream in Italian. I did so many wonderful things today.