Monday, June 11, 2012

November 24, 2011 Cremona

Today I left Firenze on the 7.00am train. I should arrive in Cremona at 10.19.

There are two connections to make on this trip: SMN-Bologna then Parma-Cremona. I packed one big bag last night. At 6.00am I locked my room, leaving behind one newly purchased carry-on and two shopping bags in my hotel room. No one was wake so I let myself out of the hotel and pushed my bag down the two flights of stairs. I could have rung the bell for Alessio, but I decided it wasn't necessary.

At 6.00 the streets had some traffic and the train station was busy with travelers and businessmen.This morning I put on my mover's back-brace to make it safer to get my bag on and off the train. I made the easy connection at Bologna, catching the 7.52 train to Parma on the same binario.

This trip, I wrote in my notebook the exact departure and arrival times. Having this written schedule has been a big stress relief, letting me see exactly how much time I have between connections. When one arrives at a station, unless this is a trip you make on a regular basis, it's impossible to know which binario to hurry to. People are always crowded around the posted paper schedule, which is organized by the hour.

When arriving at 8.00, it's necessary to look under the 8.00 section. There, each train which stops at this particular station, is listed separately. The trains are labeled by destination city. Under every individual train, one can see each city that train stops at, along with the time. Trains here run on time! Don't believe those Italian train jokes. The real problem is, the train connections are so close together, that even a 4 minute delay can cause one to miss a connection.


I didn't know which train would take me from Bologna to Parma. Since I knew its departure time, I checked under each north bound train on the Departures Schedule, for a train stopping at Parma at 9.03. Today I've determined this is the Milano bound train (the slow one which makes perhaps 10 stops between Bologna and Milano). I took a picture of the connections with my iPhone. I'll be better prepared with this.

I had 10 minutes, plenty of time to make the connection on Binario 1. When I boarded, I choose the jump seat in the area almost between two cars. This seemed convenient at the moment, but I later regretted it. A group of six teenagers made numerous trips back and forth, boys and girls flirting and fidgety. Each time they passed by, the inner door slammed.



The capotreno (conductor) passed by to check my validated ticket. He took an extra long look at it. He told me during this season, there was no train between Parma and Cremona. 'Get off at Fidenza instead. There, you can make the connection to Cremona.' I understood him perfectly.

I thanked him for his help and immediately called Marta. "So, do I trust the conductor or the computer which printed out these tickets?" I asked her. And, if I get off at Fidenza, I wondered, how much time did I have to make the unknown connection to Cremona. Marta was at home thankfully and told me she would check the Internet. She agreed, the Internet did show a connection in Parma.

After some discussion, we decided to trust the conductor. Fidenza is the stop directly after Parma. Marta found its arrival would be at 9.17 with a connection directly to Cremona at 9.47 and arriving at 10.30.

I love the feeling of adventure on these trips. There is some stress but I now have no fear of being hopelessly lost. I sat and enjoyed the countryside pass by.  When I see the trellis of the bridge over the Po River, I know I'm almost home.









When the train came to a stop in Cremona in the center binario. I pulled my bag from the car and looked around. Umm, no one in sight that I knew. I started descending the marble steps, the suitcase wheels loudly clicking on one step at a time. My Italian phone began to ring. There was no way I could answer it. I passed through the underground corridor and noisily clicked back up the steps to ground level, the phone insistently began to ring again. I knew it was Marta trying to find me.

Cremona has its own distinct earthy smell. I love it. I'm home. Walking toward the station office, I looked again for a familiar face and I saw not one but two! An always smiling Marta, with her happy mother, Marina!

What a nice surprise! We three walked home, speaking Italian then English and again Italian. On the way, we passed Anna, on her bicycle. Each trip, I always seem to see her as she's bicycling around town. Anna helps Marina deep clean house several days a week. In the past Anna was also a big help for Nonna, who now needs 24 hour care in a nursing home for the elderly.

I gave Marina an oven mitt and potholder and a pink spatula. For Marta, Williams Sonoma kitchen treats, a cheese knife from Holland, a grammar book, Hershey's milk chocolate chips, maple syrup and a puzzle showing New York doors.

Marta rushed off to her classroom and I went to COOP grocery store where I made a shopping list for later. Barbara wants to shop with me after school is out. I enjoy grocery stores as much as museums.

My list:
Star Tea
Novi nutella
Book by Benedetta parodi 13.51Ruro
Book by Erri di Luca --I Pesci non chiusono gli occhi,  10.20
Le fregole pasta 2.29 (Sardegnian pasta)
Funnel
Dadi da brodo (bouillon cubes)
Lievito (leavening)

Primo was waiting at home when i arrived home for lunch at 12.45. I received more hugs. Primo looks stressed and tired. His brother and business partner passed away unexpectedly a month ago. Primo is feeling a huge weight on his shoulders as he tries to sort through this unforeseen tragedy. I gave him a current golf magazine, almonds from California, which he loves, See's candy and some just pressed olive oil from Toscana.

For lunch we had yummy chicken cutlets (pound chicken breasts until thin, dip in beaten egg, then bread crumbs and sauté in oil until crispy), polenta and green salad.





Marina began cooking turkey for tonight's dinner because today is Thanksgiving Day in the US. She bought three pieces of organic turkey, so we can break her no turkey rule. She's never trusted its origins and turkey is not a popularly eaten poultry in Italy.


She placed the turkey in a pan and sautéed it in olive oil. Then add two sprigs of fresh rosemary, one whole clove of garlic. Add white wine and cover. Cook on low heat for two hours. We'll have mashed potatoes, called creamed potatoes here.

Marta and I shopped at COOP and then walked to her apartment. It's been over a year and the newlyweds have created a cute comfortable place for themselves. She has made a crostata with a jam filling for tonight's dinner. It looks exactly like one I saw in the window at the famous Cremona Duomo Pastisceria.



Before dinner, we walked all over town taking pictures of Christmas lights. The town looks enchanted. The medieval buildings are decorated with strings of white lights. It's afternoon, but already dark.




When we arrived home (Primo's), no one was at home. Rosa should have come home from work but she too was gone. We were locked out.

We decided they were probably attending Mass. We too went to church but there was no one sitting in the pews. It looked like an area under construction. In fact, the church is undergoing some restoration. I followed Marta to the back side area and into an adorable bright chapel, barely large enough to seat 20 or 30 people. The tiny wooden pews lined up on each side wall only accommodated two people each. We found Primo and Marina standing at the back wall, where we quietly joined them.

I saw Mattia and Rosa sitting near the front. Rosa, Mattia and I had a happy reunion with hugs after mass. At home I gave Mattia his Wired magazine and the comic books I've been collecting for him since May. For them I also had See's candy and a puzzle showing colorful candy. I was still holding a 'Hot Rod' magazine for Mario and See's for Anna.

Unknown to me, I was also still holding Marta's See's candy too. That sweetie-pie never asked 'and Zia, where is my See's?' Dinner was enjoyed by all. We were only missing Mario, who had to work until 8.00 pm. After dinner, the girls and I walked through the old town center. It's Thanksgiving and I am so thankful to be home amongst this loving family.




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