Nov 22, 2011, Morning at Mercato Vecchio (Firenze)

This morning Alessio gave me a printout of the train connections for Volterra. I went first to drop off a box of See's candy at The Florentine newspaper, which keeps me current with local events. Their address is Via dei Banchi, 4. I rang and they buzzed me in. I climbed two sets of stairs. It was dark as night inside. It's so nice to know how to work the inside light switches. I'm always silently thanking Leo for teaching me so many things. I was a bit surprised they were not terribly friendly at the newspaper, but everyone seems stressed these days due to the world economy.

Next stop was the Santa Maria Novella (SMN) train station, just a few steps away. I bought tickets for both Volterra and Cremona. I love those automated machines. Volterra cost 23€ round trip and Cremona €35 each way.

Then onto foodie heaven, the Mercato Vecchio near in the San Lorenzo area. The market opens early and closes at 2pm. I have plenty of time.

Note to self: Who was San Lorenzo (St. Lawrence)?

Lorenzo de' Medici's (Lorenzo il Magnifico) home is nearby. San Lorenzo would have been his name day saint. I need to research name days. Leo's Onomastico was 26 and he considered it his lucky number.

I entered the Mercato's outside white tent which has housed the Ortofruticolo (fruit/vegetables) section for the past several years. It used to be upstairs, but I can't even find the staircase now.

I note the dried whole pepperocini have tripled in price since May. They had been 1€ a packet. The packaging seems to be from a different supplier but the vendor is the same ancient woman who has always been here.

On my shopping list are tangerines.

I can't get my fill of them. They're seedless, juicy and so fresh. I bought six. That should hold me for the next day or two. I took pictures of their vegetable presentations which are always artfully setup. These vendors are serious, curt and just tolerate me walking and looking. They must get up really early because they look tired. I always buy something before I start taking pictures. I'm sorry I'm not a local. I would love to have a conversation about the preparation of this luscious produce.

I entered the main building, taking a picture of the door, with its winter hours of operation.

I walked all around taking pictures of fresh fish, poultry and meats, prosciutto, soft, hard and wet cheeses and salami of all sizes, including some made from donkey, horse and wild boar.

The meat counters are for locals but the many spice vendors cater to tourists. The signs are in English. I saw a signs stating, we speak English, French and German or We vacuum pack. Today I see at the poultry counter 'We have wonderful turkeys for Thanksgiving Day.' "Tacchine Super" The turkeys here are not tightly wrapped in plastic. They are fresh and huge. They're also limited in number.

There are plentiful ducks, chickens and roosters, all sold with their feathered heads intact. The meat counters all have a small stuffed animal inside the case to indicate what's in the case. A dignified plastic horse stands on one counter. I won't eat horse meat.

A friend would like some truffle salt. I found it at a stand I especially like. Its name is "La Bottega Golosa" or The Gourmet Shop. All its commesse are Japanese. They are customer service (tourist) oriented. I wonder if they own this stand. I found the truffle salt. I decided to do some Christmas shopping too. I add another bag, filled with cooking goodies, to my arm.

I realized I left this morning without eating breakfast. I love the Italian style of eating three meals a day, no snacking all day. At the cassa I paid 3 Euro, then took my receipt and stood in line at the proper counter. Last May I had seen a handwritten sign tacked on the wall, 'Don't ask me to cut the sandwich in half.' That sign has been taken down.

I recognized the man making sandwiches and I watched as he made mine. I brought away a Trippa panino (Tripe French dip). I requested both spicy red sauce and mild green sauce.

At the dried meats/cheeses, I chose fresh mozzarella cheese, packed in brine, a piece of another pungent cheese and 4 fette (slices) of Parma proscuito, all for less than 5€. From another vendor I bought a large milk. All these treasures will go onto my window ledge. I'm set for dinner for tonight and tomorrow.

Within 15 minutes I was back in my hotel room, enjoying the Trippa panino, milk and a tangerine for dessert.



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San Lorenzo (Saint Lawrence):  "Lawrence of Rome (c. 225 – 258) (Latin: Laurentius, meaning "laurelled") was one of the seven deacons of ancient Rome who were martyred during the persecution of Valerian in 258." Wikipedia -- St. Lawrence of Rome

Lorenzo de Medici (Lorenzo il Magnifico)  Wikipedia: Lorenzo de' Medici

Name day or Feast Day:  (Onomastico)

"In Italy, one's name day is referred to as his or her "Onomastico" and is viewed as almost as important as a birthday, at least in the Southern regions (where there are historically, stronger Greek influences). Often people receive small gifts on their Onomastico. In Italy (especially in the South), children are often named after saints. Some children are named after the saint on whose feast day they were born, others are named after the patron saint of the town they live in, while still others are named after a saint that the parents feel a connection with." Wikipedia: Name day