Saturday, February 11, 2012

Nov 20 2011 Sunday in Firenze

I slept eleven straight hours last night so I didn't feel scrambled today as I did last night. Yesterday was an emotional day.


While walking toward the Arno River, I called Emiliano (a former student of Leo's)and his Sardinian wife, Caterina to see what time would be convenient for me to stop by their home today. A few months ago I asked if they could bring me salt from Sardegna. I've used all the salt which Leo and I brought during our trip to Sardegna three years ago. Today I am carrying for them, See's Candy, a little dress for baby Grazia and a stuffed Eore donkey I bought at LAX. We set the time for 5pm.


I went onto the La Fierucolina organic market (3rd Sunday of every month) in Piazza Santo Spirito. The church bells were ringing out a song for noon. I recorded it with my iPhone. So cool to use today's technology to preserve and take away the sounds which have rung here since the year 500.

I love this market and am grateful the timing was right. I missed it during my May visit last year.

I first went searching for a replacement woolen cap. It will be cold in Perugia tomorrow. After trying on quite a few, I decided on a cream color, wool one, hand-knit by the proprietor of the stand. She told me only uses organic materials for products she sells at this market. In Perugia she sells colorful hats instead of these earth tones. I gladly paid her 23€ for her handwork. The hat is comfortable and fits my large head.

The morning was sunny but not too cold. I tucked my new hat into my purse for safekeeping. I went on toward my favorite basket lady, sitting in her traditional spot, near the rim of an old fountain. She places fresh herbs on the ground in front of her table, which is decorated with a garland of fresh greenery. The air smells heavenly! Her baskets sell out quickly.



She also has a second table filled with dried flower bouquets and wreaths of fresh herbs. If I had an apartment here, it would be filled with her wares. I immediately found a huge twig basket for 40€. It pained me to put it back. Those freshly cut twigs would not make it through Customs and it would not have fit into my suitcase. Too visible, too fresh for carry-on. I still wince when I think about my beautiful olive wood cutting board I was forced to leave behind last year. It had been labeled 'a Potential WEAPON' by Italian airport police.

I always buy one basket from this sweet country woman. Her name is Marianna Baldasseroni.  She was not so shy with me this time. As I do every year, I told her I have five or six of her baskets at home in the USA. I said they are well loved. She smiled and said, 'I remember you.'

I choose one grayish basket with a brown stripe and then a smaller one which will make a great table bread basket. (22€ + 14€)




Leo used to tease me because I have so many baskets. He said baskets are for country people. But we used my baskets often to transport groceries on our trips to the desert. I miss him so much.

I didn't see the crepe stand which normally sells chestnut crepes spread with creamy goat cheese. I passed through the market again to check on the nearby (Giovanni) Galli Fornaio, a bakery I've visited often. Happily I found them open, with customers queued up.



I took a number. I am so glad my understanding is sufficiently good to understand the quick speaking counter ladies. Someday soon I want to speak just as quickly. I need to immerse here...

When my number was called, I already had milk from the refrigerator section in hand and I knew exactly what I wanted. In this hungry crowd I didn't want to slow things up. I chose a 3 inch slice of (warm) rectangular shaped sausage and cheese pizza and a piece of the pine nut torta (pine nuts on top of a molasses colored filling of raisins and pine nuts, over a shortbread base). Cost for all 4€. It will serve me for at least two meals and a few more snacks.

Heading out of the Piazza I passed a vendor selling 'Peace and Love' roasted candied nuts. He was just filling his large copper kettle with peanuts and shredded coconut. He was stirring with a gigantic wooden paddle.




I sampled. So yummy and still warm. I decided against a small paper bag (2€) and instead bought a recycled glass tomato sauce jar filled with both candied peanuts and squares of candied toasted sesame seeds for 6€. While searching for my money, I found my lost purple beret, in the side pocket of the purse. It pays to be well rested!

I returned to the hotel where I read and enjoyed my just bought goodies.




My afternoon planned itself. Using the shortcut Alessandro taught me, I walked to the SMN train station and bought a one-way train ticket for Perugia (10€). All of the old automated ticket dispensers have been replaced by easy to use, talking machines. Mine spoke English with a Russian accent: 'Take your change from the area on the right side.' It seems like they have also doubled the number of available machines. It was a very pleasant experience. The machines take both cash or credit cards.

Next on my list was the Farmacia Santa Maria Novella. Mistakenly, on my last trip, I decided not to spend 28€ on a satin bag filled with potpourri. This potpourri is made from all natural herbs and oils and it doesn't bother my asthma.



This time I bought three bags, in three colors: Rose, Green and Orange. I have a Violet one at home hanging on the entry hall tree. These are for my clothing drawers. I asked the commessa how to properly use these bags. She told me to stick them a few times with a pin whenever I need more fragrance. She gave no indication she had trouble understanding me. A gentile lady of a higher class.



Watching my time, I decided I still had time to see the exhibit at Palazzo Strozzi: 'Money and Beauty, Bankers, Botticelli and the Bonfire of the Vanities.' The ticket price was 10€ but I received a 'sconto' or discount of 1.5€. I had read on the bus yesterday to show the bus ticket for a discount. When asked, I was ready to produce the needed bus pass. My language skills are saving me a little money. For 5€ I rented a guide headset, leaving my California drivers license for security.

The walk through lasted 1.5 hours. The tour was really fascinating. I was pleased to see author Tim Parks took part in this exhibit. Medici finances has become his specialty. Quite a few Botticelli paintings were present. I did not get the guide, which was a mistake. I'll go back later and buy one.

I finished the tour at 4.30 which gave me plenty of time to walk to Emiliano's home. As I walked down past the Arno River, the evening light was fantastic. I took pictures along the way. One doesn't have to enter a museum or gallery to see art. Art is everywhere in Italy.






I love visiting Emiliano and his family. We had lemon tea and cookies. Grazia liked her stuffed animal. She is a sweet happy child. I learned two things from Emiliano. Those ticket checkers on the bus, now wear civilian clothes. In the past, they wore uniforms, and non ticket holders would exit the bus the moment these guys boarded. Emiliano said now they dress like businessmen. True. That's what confused me yesterday.

Emiliano told me I can take the train to Volterra from Pisa. He wrote out the schedule for me. I'll need to take the 5.30 am train from SMN and transfer in Pisa. Three hours to arrive in Volterra. I can't wait! I'll try for Wednesday.

Another change here in Firenze. In addition to closing off the Duomo area to all motorized traffic, they have closed off Via de' Tornabuoni as well. It's amazingly quiet now in this neighborhood near my hotel. At all hours, the street is filled with lots of foot traffic.

This afternoon I saw young families window shopping at Gucci and the other high fashion shops. The Gucci shop window was stunning!



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