Nov 23, 2011 Arrival at Volterra

It seemed I was awake before anyone in Firenze. My alarm was set for 4.15 am this morning. The train for Volterra departed at 5.35 from SMN. Alessio assured me the streets are safe to walk early in the morning. Sometimes his mother has early morning connections and has never had any fears. He suggested I walk straight down Via Tornabuoni and then turn left when the street comes to an end. I checked a map to be sure I understood.

I passed shops such as Prada, Gucci and Chanel on Via Tornabuoni, as I walked down the middle of the deserted street. I saw a fire truck with its engines running on my normal route, which would have been Via del Sole. Thank you Alessio for this alternate way!

At 5.15 I took a picture of the empty SMN train station, validated my ticket and then checked for the correct binario. It was A1, which is a little removed from the main area. As I walked toward A1 several vendors began to roll their carts into position. They sell the morning newspapers, books, magazines, tour guides and snacks but no water. In SMN the vending machines right on the binario sell water for 1€. I always keep a coin handy.

I had an uneventful trip to Pisa, where I made an easy connection to Cecina. After a short time, I could see the sea, on the right, from the train window. I should have looked at a detailed map of Italy before making this trip. As we entered the first of two tunnels I was compelled to leave my seat and stand at the end of the carriage for a good view outside. As we left the second tunnel, I caught my breath. We were passing Leo's favorite beaches. I realized these two tunnels are meaningful to us. Often, we would talk on the phone as Leo drove from Firenze to his summer home here. He would tell me he was approaching the tunnels. We never knew if the cell phone signal would stay strong or be interrupted.

He brought me to this area, twice. Alone, we had walked at night on the cold windy beach, in the moonlight.

Today, the train passed the pine tree park, where Leo told me outdoor night movies are shown in the summertime. And then we sped right by the village's little train station. I wanted to snap pictures, but I wasn't prepared.

I left the train at Cecina with 30 minutes to spare to make another train connection to Volterra. I checked the schedule for confirmation.

I waited and waited on the platform but the train seemed to be late. When a train finally arrived, I asked a business man, 'per Volterra?' He stated no. Immediately another man, a conductor I had seen waiting on the binario, came quickly to me and said, 'Follow me! You need to take the bus to Volterra.' The train at 7:54 must be seasonal. I missed seeing the bus picture, shown after 8:00: Volterra-Saline 8:01

I am so glad I understand Italian and had no hesitation to follow him. A large Pullman bus was a minute away from departure. I thanked the conductor and climbed aboard the bus. I was the only passenger.

I learned something about Pullman busses. Check the front panel and read its destination. I also learned when it's off season, one must be flexible for unexpected changes.

We left Cecina behind and drove about 30 minutes through the countryside, only passing through one small village, until the bus pulled into a tiny parking lot behind an unmarked tiny building, which I now know to be the Saline train station. Two other blue buses were already parked there, their destinations showing Volterra. My driver stopped our bus and got out to take a break.

It was my fault for not confirming but I'm still wondering why the driver didn't say anything to me. Two passengers boarded our bus and we departed. Lucky for me I was observant..at least partially! My bus turned left, back onto road we had just taken. I was headed back to Cecina! Nowhere did I read in my research about two bus connections but then most people travel to Volterra in high season, not in the fall.

I remembered that small village we had passed through. I leaned in to speak to the driver and said, 'Please stop in the village. I need to leave the bus. I want to go to Volterra.' He responded, 'You should have transferred at Saline.'

He did pull over in the village and I hopped off. I noted a bus stop, without a schedule posted, a police station and a bakery. I chose the bakery. A man was speaking with the counter girl, but he left as I entered. I explained my situation to her. When I asked if there was a taxi in town, she laughed 'No!' She told me there was no bus schedule at the stop, either. Then she said, wait I have an idea and I followed her outside the shop.

That man I had seen in the shop was Guido Vanni, a salesman for 'Gianni Pan S.p.A' (suppliers for bakery production) and he was on his way to Volterra. She told him my story. He didn't hesitate a moment. With a smile he invited me to ride up to Volterra with him. He moved his computer off the passenger seat and cleared the floorboard of scattered sales pamphlets. He pointed to a fortress, which was perched high atop a distant hill, saying, 'That's Volterra.'

Such a nice man. I did take a picture of his truck, but I felt uncomfortable asking to take his picture. He was in his fifties, with a neat brownish streaked gray beard. He was dressed warmly in workman's clothes. I recognized his customer service attitude, necessary for sure in his profession.

He explained the villages of Saline is named for its salt mines, left here by an ancient sea. I told him I had studied Volterra and the war (bloody slaughter I thought to myself) when the Medici family had taken Volterra.

I asked for his business card and thanked him for his kindness. I promised to send him See's candy from California.

After driving up the many switchbacks, we arrived and with a friendly handshake, he dropped me off right at the medieval gates to the historic section of Volterra. It was 8.30 in the morning.