Sunday, February 12, 2012

Nov 21 2011 Perugia and Perugina


It's 3.45 in the afternoon and I'm on the A bus going in the opposite direction from Perugia.  Fingers crossed this bus turns around at the end of the line and returns to Piazza Parttgiani where I started from at 12.45.

We just passed the sign for Pila, the end of the line. I guess that means we're heading back. The driver has just turned off his engines. Break time. I've done this before on other buses, no worries.

I found a Chocolate Baci, left by Asumi or Alessio, in my hotel room two days ago. The message enclosed in the wrapper said: 'Expect the unexpected.' Such a good saying to remember when traveling or for everyday living.

My day started today with the alarm set for 6.30. I ate cold pizza and milk for breakfast. The window sill stands in for a great travel refrigerator. Alessio gave me the hotel might key yesterday so I quietly left at 7.30 this morning without seeing anyone.

It's a 15 minute walk to the train station. I arrived in plenty of time to find the correct binario (platform) and validate my ticket. It seemed easy. I've learned to always check with the conductor. This morning, everything seemed accounted for.

However today, it was impossible to see from the platform that there were two trains on the same track. A girl ahead of me asked 'per Perugia?' and so did I. The conductress pointed down down the track..it was a good walk toward our train. This is why I always always arrive early.

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4.05 and Bus A is on the road again, several of us also having rested during the pause, plus some new people hopped on while we were stopped. The homes here are in the countryside. I see kale and huge cabbages growing in kitchen gardens.

I am thinking it's almost time for me to drive a car here in Italy. I would like the freedom to explore on my own.

Pansies are still in bloom and bright orange persimmons hang in leafless trees. The temperature is 11 degrees C. Add 40 or 50 to convert to Fahrenheit.

Middle school children are boarding the bus now. One happy black boy is carrying a package of new paint brushes and a tray of water colors. A girl carrying a violin. All with backpacks with small animal key chains dangling. A boy and a girl kissing, makes me think of Alessandro. Marrying too young has long term repercussions. Here is a matron lady wearing tall black boots and a stylish red beret. I love the diversity present on these buses.

I see we're 7 k outside of Perugia and we've just passed the Perugina/Nestlé factory where I boarded.

After a pleasant 20 minute ride through an industrial area, we pull into the main bus stop, right in front of the train station. Now I see all buses stop and start at the train station during their circular routes. I used to have a fear of bus riding when I first started traveling but now I've discovered the logic of bus routes. It's easy when you realize most routes are circular.



I've just purchased a return ticket to Firenze from an automated ticket dispenser. The train departs in one hour, at 17.39 (5.49). It always takes me a moment to do the math. 18.00=6pm. I looked through the bar for something to eat but found nothing interesting. I'll just wait and have cold pizza tonight in my room.



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This morning, on the train, about an hour outside of Arezzo, I was checking my watch when suddenly the conductor announced over the speaker that we were to disembark at the next stop, which was Terontola and catch a train on binario 1. I confirmed my understanding with another passenger. The train is crowed with students heading to the University of Perugia.

At the stop, we all got off and I followed the crowd up the stairs and as a group we all jumped on the waiting train.

I was a little confused as to where to get off in Perugia. There are three or four stops in a row, all containing the word Perugia in their names. I asked another student for directions to Centro Storico (the historical town center). The correct stop is one single word: Perugia.

Just outside the train station is a bus stop with perhaps 9 Bus lines labeled A B C G, etc. I took pictures of the informational boards. Tickets cost 1.5€. I bought two tickets, one to go and one to return.


Now that I've done thus once, it will be easy when I return the next time.

One could go straight to the Perugina factory on Bus A, from the Fontevegge area, where the Train Station is located. (Reservations are required for the factory tour.)

To go directly to the Centro Storico (Historic Center), choose a bus line which stops at Piazza Italia.

To go indirectly to the Centro Storico, using the escalators which travel though the old castle and then arrive at Piazza Italia, take any bus heading to Piazza Partigiani from the train station. The escalators are located directly across from the bus station ticket office. There is no charge for riding the escalators.








I purchased a book on Perugia this morning but haven't had a moment to open it. I'll be better prepared for the next trip here.


It is Monday afternoon and most of the shops in the historic area were closed. I only allowed myself 1.5 hours to walk around and take a few pictures. The views from this hill town's rim are stunning. The air was a little smokey today. I can smell smoke from the fireplaces which are being used in the valley below.







I didn't buy lunch for lack of time but I did buy a small bowl, from the only ceramic shop I found open. It's painted with a local design, which resembles yellow and blue peacock feathers.



At 12.30 I retraced my steps back down to Piazza Patrigiani to catch the 1.00 A Bus to the Perugina Headquarters. It was a 25 minute ride and conveniently I was dropped off right in front of the factory gates in the town of San Sisto.



I followed the pedestrian foot path through the outside employee parking lot. I was one half hour early before my tour reservation for (14.00) 2.00 pm.


Arriving at the main building, I found  there were three possible doors to enter. The main entrance, the Museum or the Gift shop which was packed with 40+ High School students and their three adult chaperons.


I first entered the main entrance and the very friendly guard redirected me to the Museum door. Its sign stated: Closed until 14.00.


With 25 minutes to spare, I entered the Gift Shop. Both eating and buying chocolate brings joy to both girls and boys. Everyone was in line with handfuls of chocolate bars and bags of mixed Baci. I noticed they were only buying food and they had all bypassed the trinkets.


With my arms full, I nervously watched the clock. With one commessa weighing and the other one manning the register, the line crawled slowly forward. I was the last to checkout. Just as I reached the counter I realized we were all on the 14.00 tour. The kids were racing down the ramp into the museum. I quickly followed and our two commesse closed the Gift Shop and became our tour guides. One commessa offered to stash my two large shopping bags behind the museum office counter. I gratefully accepted.


We first were escorted into a screening room, where we watched a 15 minute film (in Italian) about the history of the company and the positive health effects of chocolate. I believe!


We were lead into the main Museum where we saw old product posters and glass cases displaying various candy lines. The Perugina Chocolate Cooking School ceiling is partially cut away, letting us look down to observe a class. They also had posters of the film 'Lezioni di Cioccolato' (Chocolate Lessons) which supposedly takes place here. It's one of my all time favorite Italian films.





We followed our guide through a door (Ingresso Fabbrica) and up a staircase ascending through a cloud of delicious smells of warm fresh chocolate.  I filled my lungs right up with some deep breaths. No allergies here for me. It was the smell of paradise. Some of us had looks of pure joy on our faces.



We entered a room with a counter laid with fresh chocolates. There was a generous assortment of unwrapped chocolate bars and the famous Baci, some in their blue starred foil and others, probably imperfects, were naked. There were also plates piled high with a new line, showing roses on pink and brown wrappers.


It was a feeding frenzy and I was right in the middle of it, grabbing handfuls of wrapped items while I ate sticks of fresh chocolate bars. When we left that room my coat pockets were filled and the counter top we left behind was left almost empty.



Still munching we ascended more stairs and entered a glass catwalk which took us through the heart of the factory production line.


They were making Easter Eggs today. Uova di Pasqua, the 6 inch tall ones, which have a toy inside and are wrapped in cellophane. We saw quality control stations, with boxes of broken eggs parts. No picture taking allowed, unfortunately.


The Baci production line was also running. We were able to witness the whole wrapping process, which is entirely automated. The Baci are wrapped in foil, a box is folded, then the Baci are directed into the boxes. The boxes are then closed. The women monitored the conveyor belts for quality control but the machines did everything else.


Having worked as a packer in my uncle's factory during high school, I was really aware of and enjoying, what I was seeing.


The tour lasted one hour. It was fully worth the trip from Firenze. Guess what everyone is getting for Christmas this year ! As we exited the production area, our tour guides were busy setting up the snacking table for the next group. They called out to us that we were not to take any, but I did snap a quick picture.


I walked back out and stood at the bus stop, with my two shopping bags packed with chocolate. I stood alone there, waiting for bus to arrive for about 20 minutes. There was no bus schedule posted, but I knew it would eventually arrive.




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Now it's time to relax on the train. The 2.5 hour trip home tonight appears to be direct to Firenze SMN. With two bags bursting with fresh chocolates beside me, I have no inclination to snack. Amazing.



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