April 30 and May 1, 2012 Departure

I’ve arrived back in Firenze from Cremona, but it was still too early to officially check in to my room. Asumi and Alessio are cleaning until 2.00.  So I only dropped off my luggage and asked Alessio where I might find some Baci candies.

 For how long have I missed the Conad grocery store right in my own neighborhood! Alessio had to get the map to show me where it is. It's just steps from Ponte Vecchio and all those thousands of tourists.

When I entered I was shocked. This Conad is a treasure-trove of fresh fruits and vegetables, a pastry counter with Baba!  I bought eight Baba in Cremoma to take home. Also in the store, a cheese and salame counter, freshly baked breads, fresh meat, dairy, prepackaged seafood salad (octopus! my favorite!) pasta, piadina, candy, plastic containers, soaps, household goods, wine and liquor. Also, near the checkout, a few books. 

Believe it or not, I only saw several American (students) shopping there. The tourists, so close, but shopping instead for gold and jewelry. To me, these store items are the true gems here. 

With two plastic shopping bags full to the brim (35€), I headed back to the hotel, dropped off the bags.  I had bought a quart of milk (to go with pizza Marta packed for me), pasta, chocolates, piadina, bag clips and a plastic container for the Baba. 

I gathered up napkins, milk and my Cremona lunch of pizza and apple strudel and walked  to Ponte Trinità bridge.  Leaning against the statue at the far end of the bridge, I ate lunch under the warm sun. I checked my iPhone for the temperature. 77 degrees F with clear blue skies makes a perfect day. 

I always bring a little folder full of information of places I want to see.  I had a map I printed for a nearby landmark which I've never visited: Munstermann Farmacia (Pharmacy). It's located at the next bridge down from Ponte Trinità.  I walked in that direction. The pharmacy was much tinnier than I expected. I bought two gifts of lemon scented hand lotion.

Old Munstermann

Just a few more steps down the street, I stopped to visit Chiesa Ognisanti. I lit a candle and sat quietly for 20 minutes. This church is associated with an order of monks. I noticed a hooded monk was sitting behind the door when I entered. It was a strange arrangement, sort of a Dutch door with glass and he was almost hidden from view.

Chiesa Ognissanti Information

I took pictures of art by Botticelli and Ghirlandaio. I recently read the cross by Giotto was just returned here, to its original location.  Fabulous works of art.

 I wish I had the means. I could really get lost here in Italy. So many things to study and see.  Alessio did check my two lotto tickets this afternoon online and I didn't win! Cost was 3€ each. I bought them in Cremona. 

I walked around this area, which hosts many art and framing shops. I entered one shop which had the name Faustini because I had a childhood friend with this last name.  I inquired, but they knew of no relatives in the USA.  There were no tourists in this part of town. I stopped at an art supply store to see about getting a tube to bring back the very large poster of Alessandro which the students and I liberated from a wall after his memorial. I did not buy a tube. I don't know why, it was on my list. 

Around 3.30 pm decided it was time to get the stress of packing over with. Back in my room, I unpacked and repacked everything.  With my travel scale I saw I was underweight with each bag. 22 k for my normal bag and 13 for the second bag. It was then I noticed the art tube, leaning in the corner.

I ran out to thank Alessio. He said, " I hope it's ok. The poster would have become wrinkled in transit without the tube. The tube was left here, it's used." They keep a collection of odds and ends for recycling when guests have a need.

When I go to Cremona I always leave new purchases and things I won't need at the hotel in Firenze.  When I return, my items are waiting for me in my room. I had left Alessandro's poster bound with a hair-tie.

My heart really broke when I saw the label on the tube: Stem cell Association. Two years ago, the doctors wanted to give Alessandro stem cells, but he was never well enough to accept them.

At four o'clock, I was done. Only travel clothes, hair dryer and cosmetic case were outside the bag. I washed up, changed into the dress I last wore for Alessandro and went walking. I took the night key from Alessio and as I was leaving, Asumi and Alessio gave me a parting gift, from Santa Maria Novella Farmacia. I didn't go there this trip. SMN Farmacia is a magical place. 

 I stopped in at a new restaurant to make 8.00 dinner reservations. Alessandro's student Sara and her friend Simone will be taking the train from Arezzo and we're spending the evening together.

It was wonderful to see Sara. Her friend Simone is sweetheart. He is a journalist for radio and written news. It's his dream to work for a large news organization. His English is passable but he knows for writing in English he needs to work in it. He's looking and interviewing as often as possible for an opportunity. 

Sara chose this restaurant for us:  Hostaria il desco (Via delle terme, 23/r).

It's near my hotel and she used to eat here at lunchtime when she was an intern at Ferragamo. The food was fantastic. I need to come here again. Time to get out of my comfort zone and try new places. 

When we sat down, immediately, the server poured white wine. We choose an appetizer I've never seen before. 

Before the appetizer, we were all served tiny bowls of split pea called Passato di piselli. Buonissimo!

 

The appetizer were doughnut hole sized balls of pizza dough, quickly deep fried, not greasy at all. They're served in a paper absorbent cone, on an olive wood board, with a small dish of stracchino soft cheese and thin slices of prosciutto. This prosciutto was a drier type and sliced thicker. Cut the bread ball in half, spread a teaspoon of cheese, wrap ball in part of a slice of prosciutto, then eat with fingers. Yumm. We each had two. 

Sara told me after the earthquakes so much cheese feel off the aging racks. People were told if they wanted some cheese, they could drive to the Parma region and pick up a round of cheese. The cheese cannot be sold but it can be given away.  In Cremona, Primo told me most of the cheese, which takes two years to mature, will be given to pigs. Pigs who are raised for prosciutto are fed this type of cheese, normally.

Simone and I both choose Rice with Gorgonzola. It was not labeled as risotto.  Sara had Bici with porcini and black truffles. It smelled so good. We were too full to even share a dessert. With Sara's caffé the waiter brought a plate of biscotti. I had to confess I had earlier eaten a Baba while I was transferring them to a plastic container, while packing. 

Dinner was only 33€. I had told them ahead of time that it was to be my treat. They had train ticket expenses and they would be getting home at midnight.

At 10 pm we walked in the direction of the train station. Sara loves Firenze at night. I agree, it was peaceful to walk without the crowds. The Italians come out and the tourists are snuggled in at their hotels. 

We passed the street artists, finishing up their artwork which will be washed away during night street cleaning. The street musicians, a group I've seen before were playing. The night air was cool and the moon was almost full. There always seems to be magic in the Italian night air, no matter where I am.

~~~.~~~May 1~~~.~~~

My alarm was set for 4 am this morning. I slept really well last night for 5 hours.  

This trip is closed now. I'm on an Alitalia flight, my first time. In Italian, ali means wings. I was worried my 7.10 flight from Firenze to Rome would not give me enough time to make the transfer. Alessio assured me a transfer in Rome is far easier than in Paris. He was right. The Rome airport is well marked. There is shopping right up to the gates.  The gates are dispersed amongst the shops. As I navigated through the terminal, I realized was circling when I passed Ferragamo for the second time.

I checked my flight printout and saw ‘no in flight meals.’ I made a quick stop and bought a prosciutto panino for take-away. Cost 4.20 €

When I boarded the plan I asked the stewardess if it was true, no meal? She was horrified. I showed her the printout. "It's a mistake! We even serve ice cream," she said. 

There is plenty of food. Not the quality of Air France. I chose pasta ( not beef) for lunch. I only ate the cut kiwi and pineapple along with my sandwich. Dessert was an ice cream cone! A cute idea. They've given us pretzels and later a cream cheese and olive sandwich. The plane is really clean and for some reason I don't feel a pull of gravity like I always do on Air France. I think the seats are better designed.

After the first meal, the aisles were crowded with visiting people! Also different from Air France, at one point I saw a large tray of red wine filled glasses being carried down the aisle.

I've watched a darling Italian movie, without subtitles: Benvenuti al Nord. I need to find a tutor. I understood a lot, but I want more.

The movie is about the different life styles in the South and North. So many stereotypes! I laughed out loud when the southern mama packed a full prosciutto leg in her son's luggage before his trip to the North.

When I check through customs in LAX I've learned to say I study in Italy. I never mention family. It's the key word which will send me straight to the agricultural check line at LAX, where they will look to see if I too have a full prosciutto!