21 April, Firenze Sunday, Mostra at the Fortezza da Basso

I slept until 11am. I always sleep so peacefully when I arrive. That, plus exhaustion. The noon church bells were ringing as I left my room. I had eaten the rest of the torta della nonno during the night when I woke up hungry and had no food for breakfast.

My plan for the day included checking Piazza Santo Spirito for a mercato, buying train tickets for Cremona and the Mostra, a once a year fair like event which showcases both locally international food and merchandise. I've planned this trip around the Mostra.

One thing I had to do this morning:  slow down my quick pace. Here, there is no need to be rushing. I can walk everywhere. Time to breathe and enjoy life. That's what I do best here. It's the secret of Italy. 

 

I crossed the Arno, taking pictures as I always do. Every picture I've taken from this spot it different.  The seasons, the weather, the lighting.  It always takes my breath away with its beauty.

When I reached Piazza Santo Spirito, I was surprised to see tents setup for the Bio (organic) Mercato. This is the third Sunday of the month and my most favorite Mercato.

 

I looked for and saw immediately, the basket lady. I love her hand woven baskets. She uses twigs and branches from her bosco (woods) to weave baskets. I could see from a distance that fresh lilac was draped over the edge of her table. In the fall, she spreads fresh herbs on the ground around her display.

I approached her table and of course I spotted a basket I wanted. I have so many smaller baskets. The one I chose is large but a little flat. It might fit in my suitcase...maybe. I paid her 35€ and she remembered me. 

For the first time in 12 years, she reached for me and kissed me on both cheeks. Then she leaned over to the table and pulled off a stem of lilac and put it in my basket. I thanked her and told her how much I love her baskets.

With a happy glow, I strolled the Mercato.

 

I only bought one other thing. Yumm. The crepe making older couple were present at their bench, making chestnut flour crepes, filled with fresh ricotta.  I've had these crepes before from this vendor.  I find myself craving them when I'm back in the USA.

The line was long but worth the 15 minute wait.   I caught a picture of the shy basket maker!  She's the woman in the blue and green sweater. For 2.5 € I had my crepe slathered with fresh ricotta cheese. So so delicious. My breakfast was complete. 

 

After a scenic photo of my basket on the bridge, I dropped the basket at the hotel and with an empty Longchamps bag for gathering purchases at the Mostra I started walking.

It always amazes me to find no tourists at this Mostra. It was only a 15 minute walk from Ponte Vecchio and the entry fee was 4.5€

 

 

Firenze Fiera at the Fortezza da basso 

I arrived at 1.30 and stayed until after 6 pm. Jet lag was such a deterrent from staying into the night.

I first went through the Italian exhibits, which included purses, clothes, jewelry, glassware, kitchen cabinets, ceramics, belts, toys, decoupage on antique wood and cupboard doors, hats, scarves, and even computer made objects, such as laser cut paper creations and a demo of several 3D printers.  Then there were food vendors. Spices, condiments, cheeses, salame, gourmet pancetta, gelato, chocolates and beers. 

 

On the international floor, I especially liked the Moroccan tangines. They were brightly colored with cheerful designs. I enjoyed looking at the beautiful African woman, as they tended their wares. I was more interested in their clothing and hair clothes. They dress with such style. They are so glamorous, shining in real beauty. The spice merchants are always a special treat for the senses. I think I may have missed one floor! I'm just realizing the American flag was flying outside, but I didn't see their display. Really, one needs a full day to see everything.  

 I took a lunch break and had a German 'prosciutto provenciale' with mustard. It tasted just like a good Virginia ham. Then, being hungry for fruit, I had a cup of freshly sliced strawberries topped with hot milk chocolate sauce and whipped cream. Just perfect. I ate every morsel. Then, not wanting to miss the chocolate vendors, I chose round balls of various chocolate types. 6 small balls for 5€. 

 I bit into the pistachio ball, to find an exquisite white chocolate center.  I made note of the vendors name. Now I have the perfect reason to visit Luca. I need to buy that chocolate again. 

At the end of my day I had purchased a purple leather belt, which was customized for me with a silver fish buckle. 18€!! 

Other things I bought:

A hedgehog hand puppet, made in Belgium 12€

Two small stuffed animals, 5€ each

A purple soft leather purse, 30 €

With my bag full, I walked back past the train station and purchased my tickets for Cremona, using the automated machines. 32€ each way. 

I arrived back at the hotel at 7.15. But, realizing I had nothing for breakfast I walked on past, thinking I could run into Standa market, near Ponte Vecchio. 

I had no night key, so my goal was to be back by 8.00. By 7.30, I had grabbed a banana, a pear, milk and yogurt. As I rounded the corner of the store, I ran right into a line of at least 50 people. Sunday night emergency shopping I guess. We all seemed to be holding just a few items. To my amazement, that line moved quicker than seems possible for Italy.  

 

I buzzed into the hotel at 7.55, just in time. My room shutters are just to the left of the overhanging room.