21 April, Firenze Sunday, Mostra at the Fortezza da Basso

I slept until 11am. I always sleep so peacefully when I arrive. That, plus exhaustion. The noon church bells were ringing as I left my room. I had eaten the rest of the torta della nonno during the night when I woke up hungry and had no food for breakfast.

My plan for the day included checking Piazza Santo Spirito for a mercato, buying train tickets for Cremona and the Mostra, a once a year fair like event which showcases both locally international food and merchandise. I've planned this trip around the Mostra.

One thing I had to do this morning:  slow down my quick pace. Here, there is no need to be rushing. I can walk everywhere. Time to breathe and enjoy life. That's what I do best here. It's the secret of Italy. 

 

I crossed the Arno, taking pictures as I always do. Every picture I've taken from this spot it different.  The seasons, the weather, the lighting.  It always takes my breath away with its beauty.

When I reached Piazza Santo Spirito, I was surprised to see tents setup for the Bio (organic) Mercato. This is the third Sunday of the month and my most favorite Mercato.

 

I looked for and saw immediately, the basket lady. I love her hand woven baskets. She uses twigs and branches from her bosco (woods) to weave baskets. I could see from a distance that fresh lilac was draped over the edge of her table. In the fall, she spreads fresh herbs on the ground around her display.

I approached her table and of course I spotted a basket I wanted. I have so many smaller baskets. The one I chose is large but a little flat. It might fit in my suitcase...maybe. I paid her 35€ and she remembered me. 

For the first time in 12 years, she reached for me and kissed me on both cheeks. Then she leaned over to the table and pulled off a stem of lilac and put it in my basket. I thanked her and told her how much I love her baskets.

With a happy glow, I strolled the Mercato.

 

I only bought one other thing. Yumm. The crepe making older couple were present at their bench, making chestnut flour crepes, filled with fresh ricotta.  I've had these crepes before from this vendor.  I find myself craving them when I'm back in the USA.

The line was long but worth the 15 minute wait.   I caught a picture of the shy basket maker!  She's the woman in the blue and green sweater. For 2.5 € I had my crepe slathered with fresh ricotta cheese. So so delicious. My breakfast was complete. 

 

After a scenic photo of my basket on the bridge, I dropped the basket at the hotel and with an empty Longchamps bag for gathering purchases at the Mostra I started walking.

It always amazes me to find no tourists at this Mostra. It was only a 15 minute walk from Ponte Vecchio and the entry fee was 4.5€

 

 

Firenze Fiera at the Fortezza da basso 

I arrived at 1.30 and stayed until after 6 pm. Jet lag was such a deterrent from staying into the night.

I first went through the Italian exhibits, which included purses, clothes, jewelry, glassware, kitchen cabinets, ceramics, belts, toys, decoupage on antique wood and cupboard doors, hats, scarves, and even computer made objects, such as laser cut paper creations and a demo of several 3D printers.  Then there were food vendors. Spices, condiments, cheeses, salame, gourmet pancetta, gelato, chocolates and beers. 

 

On the international floor, I especially liked the Moroccan tangines. They were brightly colored with cheerful designs. I enjoyed looking at the beautiful African woman, as they tended their wares. I was more interested in their clothing and hair clothes. They dress with such style. They are so glamorous, shining in real beauty. The spice merchants are always a special treat for the senses. I think I may have missed one floor! I'm just realizing the American flag was flying outside, but I didn't see their display. Really, one needs a full day to see everything.  

 I took a lunch break and had a German 'prosciutto provenciale' with mustard. It tasted just like a good Virginia ham. Then, being hungry for fruit, I had a cup of freshly sliced strawberries topped with hot milk chocolate sauce and whipped cream. Just perfect. I ate every morsel. Then, not wanting to miss the chocolate vendors, I chose round balls of various chocolate types. 6 small balls for 5€. 

 I bit into the pistachio ball, to find an exquisite white chocolate center.  I made note of the vendors name. Now I have the perfect reason to visit Luca. I need to buy that chocolate again. 

At the end of my day I had purchased a purple leather belt, which was customized for me with a silver fish buckle. 18€!! 

Other things I bought:

A hedgehog hand puppet, made in Belgium 12€

Two small stuffed animals, 5€ each

A purple soft leather purse, 30 €

With my bag full, I walked back past the train station and purchased my tickets for Cremona, using the automated machines. 32€ each way. 

I arrived back at the hotel at 7.15. But, realizing I had nothing for breakfast I walked on past, thinking I could run into Standa market, near Ponte Vecchio. 

I had no night key, so my goal was to be back by 8.00. By 7.30, I had grabbed a banana, a pear, milk and yogurt. As I rounded the corner of the store, I ran right into a line of at least 50 people. Sunday night emergency shopping I guess. We all seemed to be holding just a few items. To my amazement, that line moved quicker than seems possible for Italy.  

 

I buzzed into the hotel at 7.55, just in time. My room shutters are just to the left of the overhanging room.

 

19 April 2013 LAX to Firenze via Paris

It's 2 pm and my flight boards at 4.45. I left early for LAX airport today.  The Long Beach Grand Prix race starts tomorrow, but today Long Beach is already crowded with pre-race activities. I made one last trip to the store to get Marta some magazines she can cut up for her English classes. Only four magazines and it tipped me to 22.8K. I love my portable luggage scale. I can weigh my bag at home. It's accurate and cuts out all the overweight worries stress. 

I took the Super Shuttle to LAX. The driver was a nice Russian in his early 30's. I wondered if his father also has a van franchise. Alessandro had a nice long conversation once with an older Russian man, following the immigrant's dream of making money for a better life for his family. That's how I learned Supper Shuttle is a franchise. I'm thinking of the immigrant story in Boston.  Today's driver kept his conversation to the bare minimum, maybe hiding his accent. I wanted to talk to him, but I didn't want to link him to those two terrorist young men at the Boston Marathon. 

It took a good 30 minutes to walk from Security, through the new Bradley Terminal to reach Gate 130. All new and so nice. Now electricity is free and abundant in the gate waiting area. There is an electrical socket located under every three seats. Also they have the classes totally separated to make boarding easier. I guess there will be no more shouting to announce boarding by row number. Looks like they have copied Southwest Airlines boarding system.  Nice!

In the style of the airport in Rome, there will soon be shopping available, right in the boarding area. Still under construction today.

I changed what I usually do and watched a movie:  Barfi (R. Kapoor and P. Chopra) directed by Anurag Basu.  What a surprise. One of the best love stories I have ever seen on film. I need to buy this film. Charming, bittersweet, loving and wonderful all at the same time. Message: we don't know where true love will find us.

Paris. Now I know for sure it takes minimum of one hour to change connections. As usual, the race through the airport took a different route. I wonder if they are trying to confuse terrorists or they are just looking for a better way for an international transfer at Charles De Gaule.

This trip I had a two hour wait for the connection to Firenze. I couldn't sleep on the flight over because the airplane was huge!! 

The gap between the seat and window was too wide to lean in toward the window.  This was a monstrous two level Air France. I took a picture. I don't think I've been on this airship before. It holds over 500 passengers.

I had a Vanilla Yogurt at Bert's Cafè Contemporain at the 2G Terminal.  Yumm.

I slept soundly for two hours from Paris to Firenze, with the sun shinning warmly on my head. It was heavenly.

Now, at 8.00pm, I'm seeing Welcome Home (to Italy!) messages on Facebook. I love it here. I need more time.

I took a taxi (24 €) because I was too tired to take the cheap bus to the train station. The taxi had to crawl through the tourist crowds. Asumi greeted me at the stairs and carried my bag up to the hotel, since Alessio was out jogging. She told me occupancy is up and rising. This is good news.

I brought the usual tortillas and cheese, so they can make tacos. Instead of See's Candy, I brought them a mix of wasabi peas, nuts and raisins along with a container of candied pecans.  A sweet gift awaited me in my room.

At 5:00, one hour after touch down, I had changed clothes and started walking. Edison, my favorite bookstore is still empty and boarded over. I heard there was a lawsuit filed, saying their loss of lease was illegal, but that could take years to settle. Rumors in November were that Apple wanted the location and pulled some political strings. The building is still empty, so Edison employees are not working but neither are Apple employers. 

I saw a shortcut during my taxi ride, and walked it back to Kiko. Laura took me here several years ago. It's very small, always crowded and sells Italian lipsticks, eye makeup and nail polish. A very tall, jacketed African man guards the entire store. With his height, he towers over us all. He's always friendly and I heard him welcoming me. Nice multitasking! They've copied the Gucci guard technic. I love to watch and listen to the Italian girls as they try the make-up. When I come with Laura, I can be a part if that experience.  I saw women today of all ages. Almost forgot, lots of rocking music too. I love this store. I picked up two lip gloss. 4.95€ each. 

Feltrinelli Liberia, a bookstore, is located on the same street. I picked up Non Ti Muovere, a book I need to read for my Italian class in Los Angeles.  I also found a book on various types of pesto, a Valentina book I'm missing, and a new mystery writer, Valerio Varesi. I have a frequent buyer card that gives me discounts. 

I had dinner at Trattoria Le Antiche Carrozze on Via Santissimi Apostoli, 66. 

I always have my first meal here. The food is good and authentic. Tonight I had spinach ricotta raviolini with meat ragù, a whole bottle of water and torta del nonno for dessert. I took half the water and half the torta back to my hotel room, for a middle of the night snack. 

At 8.00 I was tucked into bed. 

September 8, Alessandro Trojani's birthday

The day has so many memories and means so much to me.

Many years ago, Alessandro spent his first birthday outside of Italy with me in Corona del Mar.  Each year after that, we always celebrated the day together. He also became a connoisseur of American Fish and Chips.

When we moved to Long Beach, his most favorite restaurant was Baba Gump's Shrimp Company. We always ordered the same dish:  Fish and Chips.

Today I walked to Baba Gumps and asked to speak with the manager.  I should have gone before, but it was just too painful.  I told him what happened last year in his restaurant.  I was seated, it seemed in the spot we always sat in.  The restaurant has a style of server friendliness.  The server always engages the patrons in a conversation, sometimes even asking trivia questions about the film "Forest Gump" with Tom Hanks.  Alessandro loved to try to answer those trivia questions.

So it was normal for the server to take a seat with me and ask how I was.  I told him I was celebrating Alessandro's birthday.  It was a difficult conversation and even harder for me to eat.  At the end of the meal, I was ready to flee.  I avoid crying in public.

When I asked for the bill, the server sweetly told me there would be no bill, that the meal was a gift to me from Baba Gump and Company.  It wasn't until later that I realized the server himself had probably paid for my lunch.

Today, I thanked the manager for the kindness of one of his employees.  I should have done so sooner.  I've avoided going to that area. 

Alessandro also loved to share Fish and Chips with his Italian students during each road trip they in made researching Italian immigration to the American West.  He would always pay for each celebratory lunch at Baba Gumps.

I've checked through our photos to see how many celebrations I can find.  I'll add more as I research.

~.~2008

~.~ 2007

 ~.~2006

~.~ 2005

~.~ 2004

The importance of flour (farina)

Flour is something most people buy without much thought. I discovered some of my Italian recipes, such as ravioli and pizza dough, didn't look or feel exactly like those I had made in Cremona.  Marina, my cooking mentor, suggested I take some farina (flour) home with me.  From her own cupboard, she gave me a 1kg bag of il Molino Farina 00 to test.

Of course she was right!  And now thankfully, I can buy farina in Santa Monica from Guidi Marcello.

I don't buy bread at the grocery store. I can't bear to eat it.  We don't have wonderful bakeries in every neighborhood, as they do in Italy.

About a year ago, Trader Joe's stopped selling my favorite dense Whole Wheat Honey Bread.  Out of desperation, I began making bread again, weekly. With some experimentation, I now know that Organic whole wheat flour does make a difference. (see recipe at the end)

This morning I read this article in "The American In Italia": Umbria's B-side:

Umbria's B-side

The Granarium's local shop, where all is homemade.

By Letizia Mattiacci

Published: 2013-02-17

Umbria is a land of practical people. They're mostly down-to-earth, modest country-folk who generally prefer tradition to innovation. They dislike risks, large enterprises and sushi. They think they live in the best place on earth and there's no need to change it.

True enough — at least the part about living in the best place — but the rest is rather maddening. I admit I don't like sushi, but I could occasionally do with a green curry and a bit of curiosity.

But this is the B-side of slow life in Umbria. If you are motivated to do something — create a project or generate an enterprise — it takes forever.

I know from personal experience. I moved here and started a business after a decade of working in über-efficient North Europe. There were times when I thought we'd never make it.

That's why I admire people who start something new, and who do so against all odds and against the never-ending bureaucracy; people who overcome the many delays and get past the mistrust of locals.

I recently met someone who fits that mold, Patrizia Lucarelli. Along with brother Gian Piero she's built Granarium, a stone granary dedicated to the wheat their family produces. It is a Herculean effort and a totally novel way to preserve tradition. Artisan mills have almost disappeared in Italy. Hers is one of the very few national farms that actually grow the wheat they grind.

Not only that, the family also cultivates the wheat organically in local fields surrounding the mill and stores it without chemical preservatives, using ventilation and the summer sun to avoid fermentation and spoiling.

Then they grind it using antique machinery that they bought on eBay (yes), restored, and brought back to operational life. If that weren't enough, they also make breads and cakes in a wood oven that they sell in their little shop and at various markets throughout the province.

And should I wax lyrical about the flavor? Come see and taste for yourself. The word flour takes on a completely different dimension. I might never find the courage to buy supermarket flour again. 

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Whole Wheat Bread


Makes 1 loaf
Sponge

1 C warm water
½ C milk
3 t dried yeast
¼ C honey
1 C white whole wheat flour (Trader Joe's)

Dough

¼ C olive oil
1 C O Organics Whole wheat flour
½-1 C whole wheat flour (you may not use it all)

Prepare sponge. Scrape down sides with rubber spatula. Cover and set in warm place for one hour.

Sprinkle oil and add 1 cup of flour over the sponge. Hard beat by hand for 1 minute.

Add remaining flour, 1/4 C at a time with a wooden spoon. Until a soft dough is formed. May be done in a heavy duty mixer.

Turn dough onto board. Knead, but do not add too much flour. Dough will be slightly sticky. Add 2 t olive oil to a large bowl. Place bread ball into bowl and turn to coat with a veil of oil. Cover with clean towel and let rise 1-2 hours or until doubled.  Punch down.  Let rise again.

Place into buttered metal pan. Cover and let rise about 45 minutes. When it has risen enough, put it into a hot oven. (It may fall a little if it rises too far.)


Preheat oven. Bake 375 for 35-45 minutes.

Saturday, Feb 16 Cooking at the Istituto

I love Saturday morning Italian class, held in Westwood Village at the Istituto Italiano di Cultura Los Angeles.  It's a 10-week conversation course.  Michele our instructor is from Rome.  We spend two heavenly hours only hearing and speaking (trying our best) Italian.  Twice during the course, we have a cooking contest. In the past we split $20 for cost of materials.

This semester, we divided the class into two cooking teams the week before our kitchen experience.  We played the Italian version of Hasbro's board game TABOO.  The object of the game is to have your teammates guess as many words as possible, within two minutes. Every guessed word advances the team token by one step.  Each card contains a top word, with five taboo words. One cannot use any of these words to describe the target word.

The winning team won a $15 giftcard for Trader Joe's.  It was a close win!





Our team:  Giorgio, Maria, Francesca
Francesca, cook
Giorgio, prep man
Maria, presentation of the dish, with historical notes

I arrived 30 minutes early with all ingredients in two baskets.  Michele dislikes 'confusione'.   Saturday morning I made a torta for dessert. 

Our meal was well received and given Michele's approval, which I strive for.

When he saw my Voiello Pasta, he said, "You brought that from Italy!"  Yes, I come home each trip with a suitcase full of my favorite products.  How can I cook authenically without them?

Michele commented that any sauce made with "panna" (cream) is from Northern Italy, because of its proximity to France.

Nitrate free Pancetta and Guanciale from McCall's

Mccall's Meat and Fish (Los Feliz, California)

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Pasta with Proscuitto Cotto and Pancetta

(Adapted from the Italian magazine "Alice")

serves 4 (Ingredienti per 4 persone)

320 g pennette lisce (g pennette lisce)
250 g half and half (di panna)
1 small red onion (1 cipolla)
100 g ham, nitrate free (di Prosciutto cotto)
100 g pancetta, nitrate free (di pancetta coppata)
100 g crushed canned tomatoes (di pomodori pelati)
½ c white wine (1/2 bicchiere di vino bianco)
2 handfuls fresh cleaned parsley, chopped (2 ciuffi di prezzemolo)
½ dried pepperoncino (1/2 peperoncino)
Parmigiano
Olive oil (olio extravergine di oliva)

Affettate sottilmente la cipolla e fatela appassire in una padella con 1 cucchiaio di olio e il peperoncino tritato. Unite le fette di pancetta coppata e di proscuitto, tagliate a listerelle, e fate insaporire per 2-3 minuti; bagnate con il vino e fate ridurre della meta’.

Begin boiling the water for the pasta, making sure the water is properly salted.

Saute the diced onion until translucent in 1 t olive oil.  Add 1/2 dried hot pepper, crushed. Add the diced ham and cook for 2-3 minutes.  In a separate pan, saute the diced pancetta until nicely browned, then drain on a paper towel. Add white wine to onion mixture and cook it down to half.

Aggiungete i pomodori pelati, schiacciateli con una forchetta e proseguite la cottura per 5 minuti. Versate la panna e fate cuocere per altri 10-15 minuti, fino a attenere una salsa morbida ma densa.

Add half the dice parsley and the crushed tomatoes, breaking them up with a fork.  Cook 5 minutes. Add the half and half and cook another 10-15 minutes.  Begin cooking pasta at the appropriate time for it to be done when the sauce is done.  Add the drained pasta to the sauce, add the pancetta and toss on a low flame for 1 minute.  Serve at once, topping with Parmigiano and parsley flakes.

Mentre il sugo e’ in cottura, lessate la pasta in abbondante acqua bollente salata. Scolatela al dente, trasferitela nella padella con il sugo alla panna e spolverizzate con il parmigiano. Mescolate, padellate un minuto e servite.


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Torta di Cioccolata, Ricotta e Lamponi
(Chocolate Cake with Ricotta & Raspberries)

From:  Lucullian Delights

4 eggs
2 ½ dl / 1.057 cup sugar
125 g / 4.4 oz fresh ricotta
75 g butter / 2.6 oz butter
200 g / 7 oz powdered cacao
3 ½ dl / 1.5 cup flour
½ tsp baking powder
1 pinch of salt
125 g / 4.4 oz fresh raspberries (or drained frozen)


Wisk eggs and sugar in a bowl and then add the mashed ricotta. Mix until smooth.

Melt the butter and add the chocolate.

Pour butter into the egg mixture and stir.

Sift flour, baking powder into a bowl and stir well.

Butter the cake pan. Pour half of the batter into the cake tin, distribute the raspberries over it and cover with the rest of the batter.

Bake in 175° centigrade (350F) for about 25-30 minutes or until toothpick comes out almost dry.  Do not overcook.

Dust lightly with powered sugar.


The BEST powered chocolate in the world, I think.  I bought mine at the Perugina Factory outlet in Perugia. 

Buon Appetito!!

Saturday, Feb 2, 2013 Torta Nicciola at Istituto Italiano di Cultura Los Angeles

To celebrate a birthday for Saturday morning's Italian lesson, I made this Italian cake. It was delicious! Buonissima!!












Torta di Nicciola
(Hazel Nut/Almond Cake with Orange Glaze) (Adapted from Tastes of Italia 4/2011)


Cake:

4 eggs
½ C granulated sugar
1 C hazel nuts, toasted and ground into flour (or almonds, toasted)
½ C flour
1 t baking powder
2 T orange zest
1 T fresh orange juice
1 t vanilla
Frosting:

1 C powdered sugar
2 ½ T fresh orange juice (add only what is needed)
½ t almond extract
½ C chopped or slivered almonds, toasted


Preheat oven to 350 F

Butter a 10 inch spring form pan and dust with flour.

Beat egg whites with the orange juice and vanilla until stiff peaks form. Set aside.

In a large bowl, beat together egg yolks and sugar until almost foamy. Add ground hazelnuts, flour, baking powder and orange zest. Gently fold in the egg whites.

Pour batter into pan and bake for 35-40 minutes or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean.

Remove cake from oven and let cool for 10 minutes. Turn onto a wire rack.


Make frosting: Combine ingredients and frost top of cake. Frosting should drizzle down sides of cake.

To toast Hazel nuts: Preheat oven to 350F. Place nuts in a single layer on a baking pan. Bake 10-15 minutes or until skins are blistered. Remove from oven and immediately wrap the nuts in a wet kitchen towel. Let steam for 1 minute. Rub nuts in the towel to remove loose skins. Don’t worry if not all skins come off. Discard skin debris. Cool nuts and chop until like flour.

January 2012 Saying goodbye to Nonna. Sempre nel cuore!

We lost our dear sweet Nonna almost one year ago on Jan 16.

She accepted me into her family and always had a smile for me, even in her later years, when she no longer spoke.  She made the most beautiful window coverings. She even made me a custom white linen door covering, dotted with red cherries.  I need to iron it and post a picture!

I adore her wonderful cutlets, which I make with chicken:

Cotolette di Nonna

Pound chicken breast pieces until thin.
Dip and cover pieces in this order:

  Flour

  Egg

  Breadcrumbs
Saute each side until golden in olive oil mixed with a pad of butter.

Serve with creamed potatoes.

Angels stitched with love by Nonna