May 7 Salsomaggiore Terme Spa Experience

After finding street parking, it was just a five minute walk to this ornate building, which resembles a theater. We all carried or had on bathing suits under our clothes. The Spa was constructed in 1924, over naturally salty thermal waters. I stopped to read this information:

I found more facts in a brochure: "USP Salsomaggiore Terme is famous throughout Europe for its natural salty thermal waters, rich in iodine, bromine, sulphur and calcium. Here, water is the master. It comes direct from artisan wells up to 1,200 m deep at a temperature of 16°C and with a salt density three times higher than that of the Dead Sea."

We approached the check-in counter, where our reservations were confirmed and we paid our fee of 36 Euro.

We were each given a folded white terry robe and a locker key. An attendant led us up a grand staircase. I had not imagined the spa would be this elegant. The walls were filled with huge paintings and stained glass windows. Sparking crystal chandeliers hung from the ceiling.

On the next floor, we were directed by an attendant dressed in a white uniform and cap, to a pristine white, clean, large dressing room. Men and women to the same area, although I didn't see exactly where our two guys went. We were given clean slippers as we entered. (Spogliatoio translates to dressing room.)

There were separate baskets for soiled foot booties, towels and robes along one wall. Along another wall were small cabana type changing rooms with doors.

In the center, were several rows of enclosures, each included a tiny bench and crisp white privacy curtains. Just outside the changing room, I saw a long table with mirrors and electric outlets. Women can bring their own hair dryers and makeup for use after the spa experience.

We each privately changed our street clothes for bathing suits and covered with the white robes. We locked our possessions in individual long cupboards. Not knowing what exactly was in store for us, I left my camera too.

Carrying only our keys with us and dressed in our white robes and slippers, we exited this area to the corridor where the attendant lead us back down the staircase and toward an elevator.

Just to the left of the elevator was a large bathroom, with a sink, radiator and private toilet area. The tiled room was very warm, very humid and sparkling clean and the fixtures looked to be from the early 1900s. We each made a stop bathroom stop here.

I had butterflies in my stomach as all six of us squeezed into the elevator and rode down. I'm not sure how many levels we descended. I felt fear overtaking me. I told Rosa, "Don't worry if I get too scared to do this. Just carry-on without me." Rosa smiled sweetly and said, "Don't worry Zia." Big strong Mattia looked about as enthusiastic as I did. But, there was no way he was going to chicken out.

We cautiously stepped from the elevator into a warm humid atmosphere. Another attendant greeted us and we entered into large solarium like area. Behind a waist high wooden counter, three uniformed attendants were ready to take our locker keys for safe-keeping. We were all given hair covers (loose shower caps) and towels. The towels were not terry like our robes, but heavier, dense cotton. These towels felt more like a blanket, which is what they turned out to be.

To the right of the counter were 3 or 4 large pitchers of water and fresh juices: orange, grapefruit and tea. There were also bowls of pretzels, potato chips and peanuts. Clean glasses, small dishes and paper napkins were set to the side of these snacks. Across the room were cushioned wicker chairs and tables, arranged in groupings of four, for a total of perhaps 20 chairs. Each table contained a small stack of magazines.

We were directed to enter another room, though two large swinging doors to the left of the counter. This was new experience for each of us and we entered duckling style, one after another, cautiously stepping on the wet tile, our feet in the oversized flat slippers, which did not slip! This area was warm, humid and noisy. It sounded as if we were on the back side of a waterfall. What a nice surprise awaited us!

In a loud voice, Rosa told me the area with wall hooks was where we were to leave our booties, robes and towels. Wearing our bathing suits and shower caps, we stepped down into a gently lighted room, containing a big shallow pool of bubbling, swirling warm water. There was no odor of sulfur, as I had expected. We stepped down again into the pool, which had a uniform depth of about five feet.

Here are some pictures copied from the Terme Salsomaggiore website (Terme di salsomaggiore)showing each room we experienced:

Mari d'Oriente (Eastern Seas) (Name of the area we were experiencing)

Room 1 (Sea of Harmony) for 35-40 minutes of hydro-massage.

There are four stations in this pool. The whirling waters or waterfalls could be manually turned on by touching underwater rubberized buttons. The waterfall station was heavenly. Tepid water fell right onto the shoulder area for a wonderful massage. We were all surprised how tense we had been. Everyone found their favorite niche and just relaxed in place to de-stress. The water was noisy but we were mostly silent because it felt so soothing and relaxing. We exchanged station locations every 10 minutes.

Room 2 (Sea of Energy)-- We frolicked like children, in constant movement though this maze room for 30 minutes! The combination of cold and water waters caused a lot of happy shouts. The room required walking or floating through all the stations. My feet were pleasantly surprised by bubbling cold water while at the same time, a warm whirlpool of water hit at the waist level. Not seen in the picture is a walk-in part of the maze, which consisted of cold then warm showers. We were all smiles.

Room 3 Sea of Music (20 minutes) -- We each found a spot and just floated quietly in this paradise. Wonderful music could be heard coming from under the water. The pool was a perfect warm temperature. The outer walls lightly dripped cold rain onto us. We spent more than 20 minutes here and left only because another group arrived.

Room for Relaxing (20 minutes) -- This room was pleasantly a shade dimmer than the other rooms. Before entering, we all went to our hooks to retrieve the special towel-blankets we had been issued. Unfortunately, at this point I was too relaxed and jet-lag was threatening to overcoming me. I was worried I would fall into a deep sleep. I put on my white robe and exited to the large solarium, where I read and snacked on peanuts and pretzels.

Since our reservation was for three hours, Rosa and the others repeated all the rooms at least one more time. Meanwhile, I fought to stay awake with reading magazines.

The first thing I noticed when our group joined me in the solarium was everyone had a ruddy complexion with relaxed faces. After they had their 30 minutes of snacks and juice, we all headed back to the dressing room and changed into our street clothes. Several of the girls had hair dryers.

In that special Italian style of bella figura, everyone looked ready to go "out" after changing back to their street clothes. Italians do not generally wear sweats or gym clothes in public and changing rooms are provided at gyms. Service people and shop girls may also wear uniforms at their place of employment. Changing rooms are provided at the work place.

We were all starving and ready to find pizza but we declined. Marina had planned dinner for us and we were expected to be on time for the 8 pm dinner. Mattia, Rosa and I walked to the car, while the others walked on foot to find pizza.

As we drove out of town, I saw a number of hotels. I can see why it would be a prudent idea to just stay overnight. We were so totally relaxed. Home was nearby and Mattia is a careful driver. I felt myself dosing off in the car, but fought to stay awake.

Marina had a wonderful dinner waiting for us, which we devoured.


After dinner, Rosa and I collapsed on the couch to watch "Italy's Got Talent." Our faces were ruddy and I still could taste salt. Mattia said his good nights and retired to their apartment, which adjoins that of Primo and Marina.

Italy's Got Talent, in the Italian way, broadcasts a combination of truly awful performances, along with silly amateur acts and some other, very talented participants. As Rosa and I struggled to stay awake, Marina suddenly jumped up from the couch. I could see her rummaging through a trunk.

That trunk contains old family movies and I was hoping she would find what she was looking for. Back she came with a VHS tape. She took control of the TV and began fast forwarding, stopping, fast forwarding. I was disappointed to not see more than a few seconds of this and that. I was definitely fading away.

At last, she decided this was not the right tape and at the same moment, Rosa and I decided the day had ended for us. Marina promised she would have the correct tape ready for Sunday night!

I fell asleep instantly in my comfortable bed and had a peaceful wonderful rest.

May 7 Arrival in Cremona and drive to Salsomaggiore Terme Spa

I’m on the 7 am train, from Firenze (SMN) to Bologna, dizzy with lack of sleep.

Last night I had planned for a quiet evening to relax and sleep. Instead, I had to call the bank in California regarding my ATM card not working. At 9:00 pm Italian time I used my iPhone and placed the call.

I explained my issue and told the girl I was making a very expensive phone call from Italy. She seemed impressed with my 'vacation' location, but was totally clueless as to the cost and the need for some quickness to help me. I was put on hold 3 frustrating times until a technical technician found a programming error on my account. My stress level kept increasing as the line went silent for a total of twenty full minutes on hold. The phone fees will be so costly!

Traveling abroad should be a requirement for all high school students. Everyone needs to be extracted from their comfort zone to experience the world and gain an appreciation for life, cultures and the gift of time. I was so stressed by that call. Add jet-lag to the mix, plus worries about getting up early to take a 6:30 taxi to the train station and I just couldn't fall asleep.

It was easy catching the train this morning with only one bag, weighing just under 50 pounds. I left my carry-on bag at the hotel, filled with the books and DVD's I bought yesterday. I also left behind See's candy for Leo along with the corn tortillas, longhorn cheese and a chocolate Easter egg I brought for Asumi and Alessio, owners of my hotel.

Last night, at the tiny store next to my hotel, I picked up a nice salame from the Tuscan countryside to take to my family in Cremona.

I am wearing my new Ferragamo shoes. I believe we don't pay USA entry customs taxes on worn items, plus I want to add some memories onto these shoes. I decided against a Louis Vuitton bag. The VAT (tax) is 30% and I can purchase one in the US. Yes, I know one can get that tax back, but after trying it once, it's not worth it. The items need to be kept new to get the tax refund when departing Italy. I know from experience, the California Franchise Tax Board will send a tax bill, so you have to pay it anyhow.

I need to stay awake on this train! I didn't realize when I bought the tickets, but this is the new super fast direct train which runs from Roma to Milano, with just a few stops in between, including Firenze and Bologna. I'm so glad I bought a watch in Paris. I've also set my iPhone alarm, just to make sure I don't sleep through my stop in Bologna.

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What a nice transfer I made at Bologna! I didn't have to cross over to another track and I had an easy 20 minute lag before the train for Fidenza arrived. Then at Fidenza, there was an elevator and plenty of time to change to the train for Cremona. I arrived on time, at 10:20 in Cremona.

It was wonderful to see Marta at the station waiting for me. She walked her bike and I pulled the one bag and we walked home. I was really thrilled to see Marina in curlers. She gave me permission to take this picture, as long as her face is hidden!

I love the informality that welcomes me back home again. It's Saturday morning and Primo is out playing golf. Mario is at work. Rosa and Mattia will be returning soon.

While waiting for Rosa to come home, I unpacked the goodies I brought. I had maple syrup for both Marta and Rosa, comic books requested by Mattia, 3x5 cards and some teaching aids for Rosa, cute Easter tea towels for both girls, baking powder, chocolate chips and California roasted almonds, which Primo loves. I also had makings for tacos: two dozen fresh corn tortillas and longhorn cheddar cheese. This time I had magazines for all and they turned out to be big hit.

Marina: Soap Opera Digest
Primo: Golf
Marta: Brunch Ideas
Mario: Car and Driver
Rosa: Recipes
Mattia: Wired

Rosa arrived home and we all raced over to Piazza Roma to buy bread at the Pane in Piazza (Bread in the Piazza) event. The girls explained that this event showcases young apprentice bakers who are learning the art of bread baking under their "Maestri Fornai" (Teaching Bakers. We each bought several bags of hot hand sized foccacia and pizza breads and began to munch. There is nothing in the world as good as hot out of the oven bread!

Cost was three pieces for 1 Euro. We're coming back tomorrow, Sunday to buy more bread. Today we need to get right back home for lunch. I really want to watch the whole process and get more pictures.

 

Lunch was so yummy! Marina had made gnocchi in the morning and served them with three sauces: Pesto, tomato and gorgonzola. Tri-color, like the Italian flag I told her. It is so fun to be able to talk to Marina now. I understand mostly what she says to me and she is a great teacher. She gently corrects me when I speak badly. I love love being back home. I even resumed my old job of shaking out the tablecloth over the balcony railing, after lunch. I like having this chore.

No time to take a nap today! Rosa tells me we have an appointment at the spa. At 2:00, Rosa, Mattia and I loaded our towels and bags of fresh clothes into the car and headed to the town of Salsomaggiore Terme. Three friends followed in a second car. Mattia used his Garmin to navigate the one hour drive.

It was the first time for all of us to visit this spa. Mattia was a little reluctant, but supportive of Rosa, his wife. I was afraid, but I trust Rosa and her instincts. "Don't worry Zia, it will be fun!"

May 6, Firenze and the Mostra Internazionale dell'Artigianato

~Friday

I slept nine hours last night and was out the door by 10 am this morning. Still no word from Leo and I am starting to worry. He had a blood transfusion last week to control anemia. Maybe he's in the hospital again. I sent another SMS text message again this am, along with an email.

First stop was the Bancomat ATM to pull euros to pay my hotel bill. I can budget my money better when I pay them in full for all nights.

I had a sinking feeling when the ATM returned one of my bank cards with the message "Please contact your bank." This has happened to me before. Now, I always divide my money between two accounts I can draw from, plus I have a credit card and some cash when I arrive.

Happily, the second card did work. I already had plenty of spending money with me because, as a habit, as each trip ends, I bring home about 500E to be used at the start of the next trip.

Before I left the USA, I had called to make arrangements with the second bank. The polite but not very experienced girl told me she would mark the account available for travel to Italy. In error, she had ok'd the credit card portion but not ATM withdrawal.

I walked back to my hotel and did some window shopping at Ferragamo. I saw some darling shoes which had originally been designed for Greta Garbo. I decided to enter.

Only cream colored Greta Garbo shoes were available in my size 38. Divinely comfortable, but not pratical. They would too hard to keep clean. The sales lady allowed me to test my Italian which was very nice.

The elegant relaxed atmosphere of the shop makes one want to try on shoes for hours. Surrounded by boxes of shoes, I made my one choice: a black soft leather flat, based on a design for Audrey Hepburn 1953 when she filmed Roman Holiday.

Now I know my future holds some new Ferragamo shoes. Cost was 400 E for this pair, because they are part of the older collection. How many other shoes have I bought and tried to wear, suffering through break-in time? I have been converted by happy feet.

I left my new shoes at the hotel and walked 10 minutes to Santa Maria Novella train station with a guilt free conscious. I bought tickets from the automated dispenser choosing, as Rosa had suggested, the Saturday, 7 am departure from Santa Maria Novella (SMN) to Cremona, with transfers at Bologna and Fidenza. Cost: 27 E for one-way, second class.

I sent Rosa and Marta a confirmation text message. Years ago, I had a bad experience with a missed transfer at Bologna. I feel confident now. I can do it. There is plenty of time to make each transfer, even if we run late. I will arrive at 10:20 in Cremona and Marta will meet me at the station.

The Fortenza da Basso is just 10 minute walk from SMN train station. I paid 3E for entrance to Mostra Internazionale dell'Artigianato. I researched the dates of this event before I purchased my plane tickets. This will be my third visit to this yearly fair.

What a nice surprise to see my ticket gives me an 8 E reduced price for the Picasso Exhibition next week!

I wandered about for four hours enjoying all the exhibits. I saw Italian home furnishings, kitchen displays, lamps and lighting fixtures, hand painted dishes, soaps, candles, clothes, jewelry, leather goods, lace, spices, condiments, wood products, rugs, linens, toys and puppets. In the international pavilion, vendors from all parts of the world displayed their goods.

I never heard a word of English spoken. My Italian is improving. I can now understand some conversations going on around me. I bought a iridescent lime green silk purse (from Milano) and a sterling silver - fresh water pearl bracelet.

I saw several older women selling their lace work. I secretly captured one picture of lacework still incomplete. I bought something I've been looking for: a handmade decoupage of a famous Medici villa and grounds. 20E. I attempted a conversation with the pleasant older woman who had made the decoupage and she understood me.

I was really famished after not having dinner last night and only a piece of chocolate for breakfast this morning. I choose a 3E panino (sandwich) of salami and cheese from a stand inside the Mostra.

After visiting all the exhibits, I found more food stalls outside, including a Tunisian village setup. Their food looked interesting, but 10 E was too expensive and the servings were too generous for my small appetite.

Instead, I bought fresh sliced strawberries with chocolate gelato. The weather was perfect and I was comfortable in my dress, leggings and sandals. It was warm enough to melt the gelato rather quickly.

As I was leaving I saw three men carrying a giant pan into the Spanish pavilion. I followed them to get pictures.

I left the Mostra around 3 pm and on foot, headed back to the central area of Firenze. With my shopping list in hand, I searched and found Italian stockings, books on tape, films on DVD and at the tiny little market, right next to my hotel, I found the perfect bread board, made of olive wood from Chianti for 39E. Feeling hungry and a little tired, I decided to leave all my treasures at the hotel and venture out for an early dinner and picture taking.

I had dinner at Trattoria le Antiche Carrozze, across from Ferragamo. At 6 pm, it was far too early for the normal Italian crowd, so I had the entire restaurant to myself. I had actually come here last night at 10:30, but the waiter said it was too late to begin a meal. Tonight, concerned he asked if I had eaten dinner last night. He apologized when I told him no, I had only eaten chocolate in my room. I'm speaking Italian and being understood. I am very pleased.

I choose something I've observed here on past trips, but have never eaten: Linguine al cartoccio di mare (13E) . It was heavenly, so I splurged with dessert too: Profiterole (5E)(filled with custard and topped with hot chocolate sauce). I ate every morsel.

After dinner, I walked until after 9, just enjoying the feel of the city. I finally received a text from Leo The doctors made a house visit today, so he's been occupied. Relieved, I texted back that maybe we can talk on Sunday. Tomorrow I'll be traveling all morning and then spending the afternoon doing something super special with Rosa. We're going to the Salsomaggiore Terme, a spa or something like a spa.

May 22 True love stories never have endings. (Robert Brault)

I can feel the door of communication closing between Leo and me. I cannot call him, and his calls to me have become less and less frequent. Even, then, he often hangs up abruptly, fearful that someone might hear him talking to me. I understand but still it breaks my heart. Decisions which should have been made 10 years ago or even before, have lain in wait, like an unopened package.

I made an appointment to speak with a grief counselor but she is not available for two weeks. I have started what needs to be done. I have written to Leo and asked him to help me close up our life together here. Not to put an end to love, but to deal with the books, clothing and personal things he left here and the unsaid things between us…

Two years ago, he was here for one month. He had planned to return Italy for a well-publicized event he had organized with his students in a Medici museum. The week afterward the event, instead of flying home to me, our life was shattered when he was hospitalized and diagnosed with multiple myeloma, a cancer of the bone marrow/blood. Hidden tumors in his spine have complicated his recovery.

I also strongly believe Leo suffered a nervous breakdown in the aftermath of his quick physical decline. Around the same time, I started this blog to chronicle my love for my Italian family and for Leo.

Leo is now mostly house bound. I do not have access to detailed information on his condition. Leo writes what he can. One leg has now been weakened and he has limited feeling and functionality. He relies heavily on his moglie (wife) for all aspects of his life. He tells me she has dedicated her life to him, 24 hours a day and their relationship, broken since the 1980’s, has been repaired. He is fully dependent on her now.

He still has contact with his students and I've encouraged him to finish his unpublished books. He stays busy at his computer, when his mind is clear of anti-biotics, pain killers or depression.

I am content to know his home situation is now tolerable, although it's my opinion that  he lives with a wife-nurse who thrives on his dependence. I know she is happily in charge of his daily activities. She is not a person who lovingly massages his tense neck muscles and tells him he is still handsome. I think he survives each day with gratitude and the loving messages and visits from students and old friends, with secret thoughts of sweet relaxed times he and I had together.

He tells me he needs to hide our love to save his family, that blending two families is not possible. He once consulted a priest, who told him he must maintain his promise to God, which he made 40 years ago with his wedding vows.

Love cannot be dimmed, even if it must be hidden. In the meantime, I need to prepare myself for a life without Leo next to me. My heart is breaking. Now that he has returned to his wife, I hope it will still be possible for Leo and I to remain best friends and maintain some contact. I no longer believe he will ever return here.
I found some quotes yesterday which I like:


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Love takes off masks that we fear we cannot live without and know we cannot live within. (James Baldwin)

The Love within you is a reflection of your inner beauty. For love is the beauty of the soul. (St. Augustine)


Love looks not with the eyes, but with the mind,
And therefore is winged Cupid painted blind. (William Shakespeare, Mid-Summer Night's Dream, 1595)


To find someone who will love you for no reason, and to shower that person with reasons, that is the ultimate happiness.  (Robert Brault)


Shall we compare our hearts to a garden -
with beautiful blooms, straggling weeds,
swooping birds and sunshine, rain -
and most importantly, seeds.


~Grey Livingston


Whatever our souls are made of, his and mine are the same.(Emily Brontë)


True love is like ghosts, which everyone talks about and few have seen. (François, duc de La Rochefoucauld)


True love stories never have endings. (Richard Bach)

Once a man has won a woman's love, the love is his forever. He can only lose the woman. (Robert Brault)

Love is missing someone whenever you're apart, but somehow feeling warm inside because you're close in heart. (Kay Knudsen)

We had two hours together on this park bench, last week.

Thursday, May 5 Paris to Firenze

Arriving at LAX last night we saw full police presence. I'm not sure at what level alert we're at since they found Bin L. I took my first full body scan at the Security Checkpoint. The sign said it was equal to 10 minutes of radiation we encounter flying in an airplane.

I entered the little booth and raised my hands for a few seconds. Then I had to stand there and wait for the attendant to receive an audio Ok on his headset. I was cleared to go.

I prefer to arrive a few hours earlier than necessary. It gives me time to de-stress from work and transition to my own free time. I read and rearranged my carryon bag.
Paris. I slept with dreams all the way, waking up just in time for the breakfast tray. I try not to eat any airplane food, but I did drink the orange juice. I brought tangerines with me. The French bread and butter they offered were not truly French. On the return flight, I look forward to real bread, butter and cheese.

I had a pleasant conversation with the passenger to my left. She and her husband (suffering from either Alzheimer or dementia) are traveling to Israel for their annual three week trip. She mentioned how much she enjoyed a cup of coffee at a sidewalk cafe, without the pressure of rushing about. Impossible to do in Los Angeles she said. Americans know how to relax. They just need to go somewhere else to do it.

We arrived on time at Charles de Gaul airport in Paris. Passport control and bag security was not quickly done as it was last November. I noticed a lot of eye contact this time. I passed three French soldiers dressed in camouflage. They each carried well worn automatic weapons. They were in a state of ready. I had no eye contact with them.

I realized I forgot my watch last night. I bought a Swiss Swatch for 73 E here in the 2G terminal. I decided against refilling my water bottle and instead bought a bottle of Evian water for 3 E.

I'm traveling in black jeans and sandals but I'm sorry I decided against leggings. Note to myself for the next trip. I came with only one suitcase. My new travel scale was accurate and I weighed in at 50 pounds, just at the max. I also brought back one of my cheap (Chinese) carry-on bags, which bought out of desperation last time at the outdoor mercato in Firenze. I think I can pack it with books and check it as a bag for the return trip.

I want to check in at Louis Vuitton in Firenze to see about a nice carry-on for future use. It might be over my budget, but I want to look.

As we boarded, everyone was grabbing the free newspapers, all displaying the same big headlines. I picked an Italian paper. 'No pictures will be shown says Obama.' Instead, some Pakistani photos are front page.

The flight from Paris to Firenze was half full of a group of a happy French crowd. I need to check if there is a playoff here tomorrow. Just after we landed, the stewardess made an announcement and everyone started cheering, then singing a short song. They were Fans of some sort.

As we had started our descent into the airport we had a minor medical event. A girl sitting one person away from me began to feel pain in her head. At first I saw her clutch hand to her forehead and then her companion leaned into help her. I could see tears silently rolling down her face. The quick acting flight attendant brought a plastic cup containing a white gel, which she had quickly sqeezed out of a tube. The girl held it up to her noise to breathe it in. I could smell a faint odor of eucalyptus. It brought her instant relief. As soon as we touched down, she was smiling and out of pain.

I sent Leo a text message to let him know I had arrived.

I took a taxi from the airport to Hotel Cestelli. As we pulled up I saw the outside door was still open and it was 9.00 pm. So sweet because I knew Alessio had left it open for me. I ran the buzzer. So wonderful to be greates by a friend. He came bounding down the stairs and hugged me.

I thanked him for leaving the door open. He told me he had checked the Internet to see if the flight was on time.

He locked the outside door and carried my bag up. It weighs exactly 50 pounds. I brought my new hand scale with me, so I'll have no worries about being over weight.
Asumi, his sweet wife, was waiting at the hotel entrance on the second floor. Hugs all around and they asked about Leo's health.

In my room, I've found a box of chocolates from Ballerini Pasticceria, located on Borgo Ognissanti. Ummmm so delicious !! Truffle style chocolates and I've already eaten two pieces.

I made a quick tonight to run over to Edison Bookstore and bought an audio CD of Dante's Divinia Commedia and two books by Gianrico Carofiglio who is a magistrate as well as an author. His books give me an idea of how the legal system works here. I've already read one of his novels, using an audiobook to help for pronouncian. I hope to find a few audiobooks this week.

I skipped dinner in my favorite restaurant tonight. I'm not hungry.

No word from Leo although I texted him 3 hours ago. It's just before midnight and time to sleep.