November 24, 2011 Cremona

Today I left Firenze on the 7.00am train. I should arrive in Cremona at 10.19.

There are two connections to make on this trip: SMN-Bologna then Parma-Cremona. I packed one big bag last night. At 6.00am I locked my room, leaving behind one newly purchased carry-on and two shopping bags in my hotel room. No one was wake so I let myself out of the hotel and pushed my bag down the two flights of stairs. I could have rung the bell for Alessio, but I decided it wasn't necessary.

At 6.00 the streets had some traffic and the train station was busy with travelers and businessmen.This morning I put on my mover's back-brace to make it safer to get my bag on and off the train. I made the easy connection at Bologna, catching the 7.52 train to Parma on the same binario.

This trip, I wrote in my notebook the exact departure and arrival times. Having this written schedule has been a big stress relief, letting me see exactly how much time I have between connections. When one arrives at a station, unless this is a trip you make on a regular basis, it's impossible to know which binario to hurry to. People are always crowded around the posted paper schedule, which is organized by the hour.

When arriving at 8.00, it's necessary to look under the 8.00 section. There, each train which stops at this particular station, is listed separately. The trains are labeled by destination city. Under every individual train, one can see each city that train stops at, along with the time. Trains here run on time! Don't believe those Italian train jokes. The real problem is, the train connections are so close together, that even a 4 minute delay can cause one to miss a connection.

I didn't know which train would take me from Bologna to Parma. Since I knew its departure time, I checked under each north bound train on the Departures Schedule, for a train stopping at Parma at 9.03. Today I've determined this is the Milano bound train (the slow one which makes perhaps 10 stops between Bologna and Milano). I took a picture of the connections with my iPhone. I'll be better prepared with this.

I had 10 minutes, plenty of time to make the connection on Binario 1. When I boarded, I choose the jump seat in the area almost between two cars. This seemed convenient at the moment, but I later regretted it. A group of six teenagers made numerous trips back and forth, boys and girls flirting and fidgety. Each time they passed by, the inner door slammed.

The capotreno (conductor) passed by to check my validated ticket. He took an extra long look at it. He told me during this season, there was no train between Parma and Cremona. 'Get off at Fidenza instead. There, you can make the connection to Cremona.' I understood him perfectly.

I thanked him for his help and immediately called Marta. "So, do I trust the conductor or the computer which printed out these tickets?" I asked her. And, if I get off at Fidenza, I wondered, how much time did I have to make the unknown connection to Cremona. Marta was at home thankfully and told me she would check the Internet. She agreed, the Internet did show a connection in Parma.

After some discussion, we decided to trust the conductor. Fidenza is the stop directly after Parma. Marta found its arrival would be at 9.17 with a connection directly to Cremona at 9.47 and arriving at 10.30.

I love the feeling of adventure on these trips. There is some stress but I now have no fear of being hopelessly lost. I sat and enjoyed the countryside pass by.  When I see the trellis of the bridge over the Po River, I know I'm almost home.

When the train came to a stop in Cremona in the center binario. I pulled my bag from the car and looked around. Umm, no one in sight that I knew. I started descending the marble steps, the suitcase wheels loudly clicking on one step at a time. My Italian phone began to ring. There was no way I could answer it. I passed through the underground corridor and noisily clicked back up the steps to ground level, the phone insistently began to ring again. I knew it was Marta trying to find me.

Cremona has its own distinct earthy smell. I love it. I'm home. Walking toward the station office, I looked again for a familiar face and I saw not one but two! An always smiling Marta, with her happy mother, Marina!

What a nice surprise! We three walked home, speaking Italian then English and again Italian. On the way, we passed Anna, on her bicycle. Each trip, I always seem to see her as she's bicycling around town. Anna helps Marina deep clean house several days a week. In the past Anna was also a big help for Nonna, who now needs 24 hour care in a nursing home for the elderly.

I gave Marina an oven mitt and potholder and a pink spatula. For Marta, Williams Sonoma kitchen treats, a cheese knife from Holland, a grammar book, Hershey's milk chocolate chips, maple syrup and a puzzle showing New York doors.

Marta rushed off to her classroom and I went to COOP grocery store where I made a shopping list for later. Barbara wants to shop with me after school is out. I enjoy grocery stores as much as museums.

My list:
Star Tea
Novi nutella
Book by Benedetta parodi 13.51Ruro
Book by Erri di Luca --I Pesci non chiusono gli occhi,  10.20
Le fregole pasta 2.29 (Sardegnian pasta)
Funnel
Dadi da brodo (bouillon cubes)
Lievito (leavening)

Primo was waiting at home when i arrived home for lunch at 12.45. I received more hugs. Primo looks stressed and tired. His brother and business partner passed away unexpectedly a month ago. Primo is feeling a huge weight on his shoulders as he tries to sort through this unforeseen tragedy. I gave him a current golf magazine, almonds from California, which he loves, See's candy and some just pressed olive oil from Toscana.

For lunch we had yummy chicken cutlets (pound chicken breasts until thin, dip in beaten egg, then bread crumbs and sauté in oil until crispy), polenta and green salad.

Marina began cooking turkey for tonight's dinner because today is Thanksgiving Day in the US. She bought three pieces of organic turkey, so we can break her no turkey rule. She's never trusted its origins and turkey is not a popularly eaten poultry in Italy.

She placed the turkey in a pan and sautéed it in olive oil. Then add two sprigs of fresh rosemary, one whole clove of garlic. Add white wine and cover. Cook on low heat for two hours. We'll have mashed potatoes, called creamed potatoes here.

Marta and I shopped at COOP and then walked to her apartment. It's been over a year and the newlyweds have created a cute comfortable place for themselves. She has made a crostata with a jam filling for tonight's dinner. It looks exactly like one I saw in the window at the famous Cremona Duomo Pastisceria.

Before dinner, we walked all over town taking pictures of Christmas lights. The town looks enchanted. The medieval buildings are decorated with strings of white lights. It's afternoon, but already dark.

When we arrived home (Primo's), no one was at home. Rosa should have come home from work but she too was gone. We were locked out.

We decided they were probably attending Mass. We too went to church but there was no one sitting in the pews. It looked like an area under construction. In fact, the church is undergoing some restoration. I followed Marta to the back side area and into an adorable bright chapel, barely large enough to seat 20 or 30 people. The tiny wooden pews lined up on each side wall only accommodated two people each. We found Primo and Marina standing at the back wall, where we quietly joined them.

I saw Mattia and Rosa sitting near the front. Rosa, Mattia and I had a happy reunion with hugs after mass. At home I gave Mattia his Wired magazine and the comic books I've been collecting for him since May. For them I also had See's candy and a puzzle showing colorful candy. I was still holding a 'Hot Rod' magazine for Mario and See's for Anna.

Unknown to me, I was also still holding Marta's See's candy too. That sweetie-pie never asked 'and Zia, where is my See's?' Dinner was enjoyed by all. We were only missing Mario, who had to work until 8.00 pm. After dinner, the girls and I walked through the old town center. It's Thanksgiving and I am so thankful to be home amongst this loving family.

May 30, 2012 Day after the Parma Earthquake

a family heirloom

7.30 and Mario has just dropped me off at the Cremona train station. He told me there was another earthquake last night of 2.9. I didn't feel it. I slept all night and I'm finally feeling rested, as I always do when I'm here. Too bad I always have to leave, just when I acclimate into the pace of Italian life.

I'm on the platform waiting for the binario assignment to show for the 7.55 train, arriving in Parma at 8.53

I didn't see my train showing up on the board so I went looking. The train for Parma is on the 1 OE binario, way at the far end of the station. I should have remembered its normal spot earlier.  But they have changed all the schedules recently. Now one cannot go to Piacenza from Cremona on the train. It's close enough to drive, the reason given for its cancellation.

I had just lifted my bag onto the bottom step of the train, when I heard Signora! A nice policeman lifted the bag for me.

There are students traveling in every direction. Some arriving, others departing. Mario told me summer vacation starts in two weeks.

Yesterday, Marta worked until 11.30. It was her last day for awhile. She's now on maternity leave.

I slept until 9 and left at 10 to see the normal Wednesday Mercato on the streets and in Piazza Stradoveri. I walked and took pictures until 11.30. I bought a pair of silk pants and a purse. Then I found three beautiful plants with purple flowers. In Marta's garden there's a perfect spot for them. I stopped at the pasticceria to buy Baba to take to the US to my son.

I met Marta at home at noon. I setup her new purple flowers in her garden patio.  Being incinta, she does not want to touch dirt.  I'm glad she's taking care of herself and the baby who will arrive in a few months.

Primo and Marina joined us for lunch. The workmen were applying the varnish to the freshly sanded hardwood floor on the living room and dining room.

I had leftover risotto and then cotoletta di pollo, cutlet style chicken. Marina put on an apron and cooked them for us. With a green salad and yummy tomatoes, it was perfect.

Primo went back to work as he does every day after having lunch at home. Marina left too. Marta and I rested for an hour watching two tv shows. And the second show was, Cloe, Makeup. Marta and I had a discussion about culture. Italians love these shows where they can ask questions and learn. So often they will also make suggestions to each other. Marta told me they installed chairs at the marcellaio shop because it takes so long to make a purchase. The marcellaio wants to discuss each meat or poultry choice and give suggestions on preparation.

When an Italian eats with family or close friend they feel comfortable critiquing the meal. This is not be be taken as criticism. It's honestly to be helpful. It was then that Marta laughed, realizing I always say the good is wonderful. From now on, she's going to ask me, what do you really think!

I had a recent conversation with Alessandro's son. I have to agree with him somewhat. When one is not just a tourist and when one becomes attached to another culture, it does add some anxiety to one's life. But it also adds an incredible joy and richness impossible to feel when one remains safely at home in a warm cocoon.

I told Marta my issue with the English restaurant menu. I always have to ask for an Italian menu.  The English menu is usually poorly translated.  She said but Zia you are not at all like the tourists! So true. I cook with Italian language cookbooks and I want to know what the menu really says!

Woow a feather just flew into my compartment and landed on the pant leg of the man to my right. I truly believe Alessandro sends these feathers to me as a message of love.

We made apple strudel and two batches of pizza dough. One will be made with Italian flour and the other with American flour.  I can't wait to see the difference.

 Mattia is on a restricted diet and cannot eat seeded items or spices until June.  For him, we decided to make waffles and top it with vanilla ice cream and simmered apples. I found a recipe on the Internet and prepared the dry and wet ingredients in advance.

We walked to the shoe repair shop and I left my favorite shoes which I bought in Cinque Terre about five years ago. The heels are worn to their nubs. 12 E and they will be ready next Thursday. I paid early so Marta just needs to pick them up and I'll be reunited with them in November.

Dinner was a great success.  The Italian pizza was so much better than the one made with American flour.  A big difference in both texture and taste. 

Castleguelfo .. I love the name of this station. The Guelfs were here! I need to refresh my history lessons.

A kind African immigrant carried my bag up the stairs here on Parma. He walked away when I said Grazie Mille. They never ask for money and I didn't offer. It didn't seem right although I would have liked to. The way he moved away from me so quickly to me meant he wanted to do it for kindness.

My University Italian film class this year was such a help to better understand these immigrants. Yesterday when I bought my knockoff bag, the seller was a razaggo from Senegal. I felt embarrassed to show Marta my find, but yesterday at the Mercato, the police office was happily walking around saying how to the vendors. The purse salesman didn't move from his spot. Later that evening I saw him again with his wares in the downtown shopping area. He greeted me. I was afraid to show my bag to Marina, but at lunch she congratulated me on my good find. With this economy, not many of us feel comfortable spending 1200 on a leather shopping bag. I paid 60€. I'm sure the Designer did not lose a sale from me. Now I advertise for him by carrying this nice bag everywhere.

Parma. The recent earthquakes have been centered in this area and near Modena. I saw and saved a copy of a photo taken in a nearby field. Primo says the Apennines are moving closer to the Alps. The deep crack in the picture really shows the strength of these quakes. Taking just a few seconds the earth's plates slid. The news showed slides of the plates of Africa and Europe moving toward each other. A geology lesson for us all. Now it's burned into my brain that Africa is on the lower left side of Italy.
 
Speaking of news, they are saying the Devil now has a presence in the Vatican. I need to catch up on the latest scandal. Apparently this pope has been debole or weak. The forces of power always want to overcome other less powerful forces. It's the way it's always been. I see it at work too. It's part of human nature. 
 
The gypsies are changing. A girl dressed in a vanilla orange t-shirt and sandals has just left the standard note. Hers were personalized with an orange drawn flower. I'm told each gypsy is paid 30€ a day by the government and they don't pay taxes. This I think is why they catch no sympathy from Italians.

These notes used to be hand written.  Now they are typed. The message is always the same.

I will pay them for carrying my heavy bag in the train station, but not here.  No eye contact is the Italian way of dealing with this begging.

May 29, 2012 Earthquake in Cremona

 Marta and Mario both went to work early today and I slept in. There was some construction noise out in the courtyard of this old palazzo which was reborn into apartments a few years ago. The original family still lives on site in one wing.


I was just waking up at 9 am when I felt that familiar California feeling..the earth was shaking. I knew the movement was not caused by the construction outside. It lasted about 10 seconds, which is a long time when you're counting during a terremoto or earthquake. I checked on my iPhone and saw it had been 5.8 and centered near Modena, south of Cremona and one of the train stops between here and Bologna. There were a dozen or more fatalities in those 10 seconds.

I downloaded these pictures later:

Earthquake damage in a field near Modena

Fissure from the earthquake

Many cheese rolls toppled from their holding locations in Parma

I got ready for the day. On the kitchen counter, I found a place setting, focaccia, biscuits and a sweet note from Marta. I warmed the focaccia and had a glass of milk. I love breakfast here.

Marta planned to be done with work at 10.15 today. Last night she showed me how to lock the front door. The lock is a 5 bolt dead bolt. The key is more similar to an old medieval key than it is to our American house keys. These doors are thick and secure.

The compound electric wooden gates swing open and wide for a car, to allow entry for parking in the courtyard. It operates with a remote control. Cut into the left gate is a small door for pedestrian traffic. One has to crouch down a bit to pass through. From the inside, no key is necessary to get out, but it has a tricky latch that I know know how to operate. So, I knew how to get out and get back in, but since I had slept in, I decided to wait in the house for Marta to come back.

We spent the morning until 1 doing errands. We did them all by walking. I took pictures. We went to the Notary (Notaio) first. In Italy, one can only be a notary if someone in the family has been one. Notaries have a long history in Italy.

I researched the modern notary and found:
" Italian notaries are public officers who play an official role in Italian conveyance."

" It may be more useful to recall that an Italian notary, according to our best traditions, is an artisan of the law and not a cold applier of rules. The notary is, by definition, a professional who is close to families and businesses, an artisan of the law who works with words the way a potter works his clay, creating suitable legal solutions for avoiding future argument and bitterness. Because this is the true task of the notary: to prepare solutions that at the same time satisfy the law and the intentions of the parties, thus discouraging any future litigation."

Notariato in Italy

I remember Leonardo da Vinci's father was a wealthy Notary. It is still a profession which has prestige and wealth associated with it.
We also went to the Post Office, which has a similar reputation as the US Post Office. It was organized by an electronic wait ticket system. One enters the ornate Post Office and at a machine, selects a wait ticket based upon the reason for the visit. An electronic board shows the next number and the window to approach. People wait on benches, watching for their number. We waited our turn for about 30 minutes. Marta was sending a package to Australia. Cost was 30€.

Next we walked to a therapeutic store. This type of negozio (shop) sells Dr Sholl's, Burkenstock type shoes and specialty undergarments. I bought an adorable pair of shoes, matching ones Marta has. We have similar tastes in shoes, sometimes.

We walked onto the Biologic (Organic) Store, specializing in organic products and foods. I bought Farina di Ceci (chickpea flour) to try to create a wonderful dish Nonno used to prepare in his wood burning ovens at his restaurant. It's called farinata. We had a lively discussion today over lunch. Primo thinks it can be cooked in their pizza maker. Marina shakes her head..no it can't be done. Primo says to Marta, just call me and I'll come over and we'll try. Marina behind his back smiles like we are such dreamers. I love this family!

We made a stop at Marta's doctor's office. As I've seen before, there was a table containing some wire in-baskets and behind, an alphabetical arrangement of envelopes of different sizes. This table is where patients come in to pick up their prescriptions. They stop by and drop off a note telling the doctor what they need..an Rx has run out, etc. then they return and pick it up. They can also fax in their requests. I saw one man come in with a sore throat. I heard the receptionist tell him to go wait in another room so no one in the normal waiting room would be exposed.

We walked onto Coop where Marta bought food for dinner and I ran off to pick up items on my list. Yesterday we drove to SuperCoop and I also shopped. What have I bought? Cookbook by Benedetta Perodi, Noci hazelnut chocolate spread, soup mixes, pasta, dried spices, laundry bags, biscuits, whole grain pasta.

Yesterday at the bookstore I bought four books. I'm trying out two new authors along with two favorites. My Italian reading skills are improving.

Before left Firenze I picked up two music CDs, Best of Laura Pausini and Best of Lucio Dalla.

Marina made Risotto with saffron for lunch today. We had just started to eat at 1.00 when I felt an earthquake. I was the first to feel it. Then the lamp started swinging and the copper pots on the high kitchen shelf were rocking. The quake was not a jolt but a gentle constant shake for a long time. It seemed like maybe a minute or more. No damage in the house, but there was devastation near the epicenter. We saw on TV news that one small village was 70% destroyed. Not all news is known, due to their isolation.

Dinner tonight with Rosa and Mattia was wonderful. We had chicken scaloppini, roasted potatoes with rosemary, steamed rice, salad, tomatoes. For dessert Mattia biked over with a tray of cream puffs, wrapped as they do normally here, in paper and tied with string. We finished eating around 9 and then I setup a new printer Mario was having trouble installing. Mario's sister stopped by to pickup some make-up supplies I had ordered for her. She gave me a bag! Inside were three big chocolate bars and a large gift box of individually wrapped amaretti cookies. She told me she had once seen me post a picture of these cookies on my Facebook page.

The days here in Italy have a different rhythm to them. I love every minute of these trips.