May 26, Memorial for Alessandro in Firenze

I had not slept well, but I was up early and ready to be at Alessandro's memorial which started at 10 am. The location is at the new university building near Piazza San Marco. I brought three dress possibilities and at the last minute I decided on the simple, fitted knit black dress with black leggings and a white sweater with large black polka dots. I wore black and white checked Ferragamo flats. I also had my new silver Pandora charm bracket which I had bought on Friday. At 9.00 I went looking for Asumi to get her opinion of my outfit. Alessio came out and agreed with Asumi.  I was dressed just right. They both knew Alessandro and have been so supportive, though two years of hospital visits and illness. I always returned back to the hotel to their hugs. They also know what I will be walking into today.

Unless I'm going out of town, I usually walk everywhere around Firenze. I knew how long it would take to get to Piazza San Marco, about 20 minutes. I left myself 45 minutes, which was a good thing. When I got there, I walked down the wrong street, realized my mistake when the area didn't look familiar, so I had to backtrack. It was cool when I started out, but as 10 am got closer, I was feeling the humidity. Nerves too. I wanted to wear the sweater, at least until I left the memorial. I carried with me a bunch of sunflowers from a local florist and 4 half pound boxes of See's Candy in a Gucci carry bag, which I had bought Friday. 

 I've been to this University campus before, when Alessandro was still well enough to lecture on Saturday mornings. I walked in at 9.50, just in time to see Alessandro's son exit the elevator with Prof Peruzzi, organizer of this event. His son came right over and air kissed me on both cheeks, which is the normal informal greeting for friends. He told me not to worry.  I repeated the same to him. 

Diana, for whom Alessandro was advisor, during the time she was writing her thesis on artificial intelligence, was also there early. She will be speaking today.  I had become acquainted with her on FaceBook. But before that, I had listened in on her visits with Alessandro, at his home. He would frequently meet with students to give them advice on their projects for master or bachelor thesis. Sometimes he would leave the webcam or the Skype connection open so I could be with them.

The son, consulting with Prof Peruzzi, set-up a laptop computer in the ornate lecture hall, Diana organized through her talk notes. I placed the bouquet of flowers on the lecture table. I waited for Emiliano, he was scheduled to talk, but had to cancel at the last minute for illness. Another Prof, who I recognized, took his place at the lecture table. I looked for Consul Brasioli, but did not see him either.

It was 10.00 and I was the only guest to have arrived.  I choose a seat in the center of the front row. I took pictures of the room with its bright red, theater seats. On the high domed ceiling, was an ornate fresco of angels and clouds. 

As the guests began to arrive, I spoke with a friend of Alessandro's who was seated to my right. He practiced his English, while I tested my Italian. It always seems easier when using this arrangement. It levels the playing field and neither of us feel too self conscious about grammar mistakes.

The son brought his mother in from the back door and introduced her to me. We each said 'Piacere' to each other and then she walked to approach the lecture table.  Before continuing, she turned back to me to admonish me 'don't put any pictures of this on the Internet!'. She's recently discovered my Blog, I think, with the 'helpful' assistance of a friend. She was very unhappy with the Blog and wanted me to stop writing it.

She bustled up to the lectern to make sure everyone knew who she was. She then sat one seat away from me, to my left. Her helpful friend, came a little later and sat next to me on my left. She said 'Piacere' also to me, to which I replied the same but I then turned away from her. I was determined to prevent any emotional flare-ups from marring this event.

Prof Perruzi spoke to give a nice introduction and then read a 'Salute' from Diego Brasioli, who could not attend.  He was the Italian Consul in Los Angeles, and became Alessandro's friend.  He now works in Rome. 

A second professor gave an emotional speech and was teary when he finished. I recognized him as a close colleague of Alessandro's. I had a hard time understanding him.

Diana spoke, also with teary eyes. I understood a good portion of what she said. Then Alessandro's son presented a very very nice PowerPoint presentation. I think he put a lot of time and thought into it. I wondered if he realized most of the pictures he used were taken by me. I don't think the family realizes the deepness of the relationship Alessandro and I had. It's difficult to recognize what one has not experienced.

Another man, whom I recognized from pictures, spoke from what looked like hand written notes. He was a childhood friend, one of the two Claudios.  He was deeply emotional too. 

Prof Peruzzi brought the conference to its end and there was clapping from everyone, except me. I was busy filming with my iPhone, panning the audience so I can later see who was present. Then, immediately I went up to the speakers' table and handed each of the four a box of See's Candy, thank them and saying thus was Alessandro's favorite candy from California.

I left the elevated stand and approached Deborah and Chiara, two students who came with Alessandro on his one of his last trips here.  That last group was the largest group he ever brought. We needed two cars to travel.  The group was all girls and one guy. I need to find a group picture, He also had told them our whole story when they asked. So, I felt a real closeness to these girls. I last saw them here when we had a big reunion dinner in Firenze. I think that was November before his collapse. 

We three hugged and talked in Italian. An older man came up to us to say hi to me. He was Alessandro's brother-in-law. I had met him at the hospital in 2010 when Alessandro first was hospitalized. He told me his wife was unable to attend, due to poor health.

The girls and I left together to avoid an awkward scene. Just outside the door of the room, a large poster of Alessandro was taped to the wall. The girls helped me to quickly take it down and we left, rolling it up as we walked. 

We walked together to the Duomo and parted, the girls going toward the train station. 

I returned to Amando Poggi, where yesterday, I had purchased a silver charm bracelet. I bought two more charms of violet colored Venetian glass to remember the day. 

I had lunch at the restaurant near my hotel.  I ordered sformato, which I love, but this was the first time at this restauant. As I waited, a tiny feather drifted through the air and down past my shoulder.  It felt like Alessandro was nearby.

In the afternoon I decided I must do something constructive to overcome my sadness.  First, I went to SMN Stazione Santa Maria Novella) and bought train tickets to leave for Cremona on Monday morning. I passed by crowded stands for the Gelato Festival in Piazza Santa Maria Novella.

Then for several hours, I visited an art exhibit at Palazzo Strozzi:  American in Florence (Americani a Firenze). The open-air courtyard also contained an art display.

Luckily for me, the Gelato Festival was taking place at various locations thoughout Firenze. Near the merry-go-round, I sat on a yellow bench in Piazza della Repubblica and enjoyed a cup with two scoops:  chocolate and fragole (strawberry), which was always Alessandro's choice.  Cost for this special event:  1E per scoop!

And then, I went walking for hours, looking for pictures and remembering walks Alessandro and I had taken together. My last stop was at the grocery store Standa, where I bought octopus salad for a dinner alone in my room.

Firenze, Friday May 25, 2012

I slept twelve hours last night. I was out the door by 10.30, past the Ponte Vecchio view and barely in time to check the Santo Spirito Piazza mercato. I was hungry for fruit but passed by the stands. I just made a quick run-through to look and took a great picture of Chiesa Santo Spirito.

 The Mercato Vecchio is open until 2 and today was the only day on this trip I can work this in. I took some great pictures, especially of the little toy animals which give clear indication of what is in the meat/poultry cases.

Beef

Wild Boar (Cinghiale)

Bear who likes Honey

I bought fresh cherries. At another counter I found dried Amareno cherries. I asked for 2€ worth and the counterman scooped in exactly 100g. I was able to make a comment to him which he understood. I said 'you have an eye for this!' and he smiled and agreed with me.

 
The tourist season is in full force. It must be hard to be a vendor here, daily, dealing with the sameness of out of town people discovering these spices and foods for the first time. It's must be like living the film 'Groundhog's Day.' I am trying to speak, but speaking in the classroom is very different then speaking spontaneously out in public. This time when people try to speak to me in English, I reply 'I prefer that we speak in Italian.' I am understanding the prices without too much difficulty. I understand about 5 times better than I can speak. Making progress but it's slow with only these brief 10 day immersions. I crave a longer time period. Three or six months would be heavenly.

At Nerbone, I paid 3.50 € for a trippa panino (tripe), with red and green salsa. The red is chili and the green is either finely chopped parsley and maybe a bit of basil. I need to check further. I made eye contact with the sandwich maker and made a nice comment to him. I watched him making sandwich after sandwich. He was just working like a robot. I do prefer coming in the fall. These vendors are earning money but they are under stress too, with these crowds.

 

I took lots of pictures, but nothing else looked interesting to buy. I bought some Tuscano spices to take to Cremona. I know Marina likes this spice. It's awfully warm and humid today.

I walked back to the hotel though the Borgo San Lorenzo street market, but found no scarves. I am looking for only linen or light cotton ones. I like to have a scarf around my neck while at work because the air conditioning chills my neck. I took a quick look through Benneton.

I was so tired, I reached the hotel, ate a wonderful lunch with my new Alice magazine and then I slept for two hours.

In the afternoon, I craved milk and I needed to find flowers for Alessandro's memorial. In the San Ambrogio district I happened on a flower shop and found exactly what I wanted: Sun flowers! Alessandro used to bring me these happy flowers. I've never seen them growing in fields, but someday I will ! The vendor tied them up in cellophane and then paper. He left the bottom open so I can let them rest in water overnight.

 
I shopped for cheese, Parma proscuito, tomato, milk and bread for dinner. I took a number at the fresh cheese and salame counter. The counter man had no trouble understanding my Italian. I love those little rounds in soft cheese with the white moldy exterior.

I walked the aisles and saw two brands of spaghetti, which are in my shopping list. Each grocery store only carries certain brands. I have learned to buy as I see and not wait. A small pack of Kinder chocolates for tonight's dessert!

As I used to do before meeting Alessandro, I stopped for a hot chocolate at Vestri. But this time, because of the season, what a nice surprise:  cold thick chocolate milk.

For a few minutes I stopped in at the church Santa Maria de' Ricci, which has evening musical recitals.  I've lighted many candles here for Alessandro.

I trekked back to my hotel, taking pictures along the way. The lighting here is amazing. I kept seeing the word Love in shop windows. I need these good feelings for tomorrow.

The sun doesn't set until almost 9.00 but the shops start closing at 8. Dinner time here for Italians, and they close up and go home.

Unfortunately I had a sleepiness and restless night.

April 30 and May 1, 2012 Departure

I’ve arrived back in Firenze from Cremona, but it was still too early to officially check in to my room. Asumi and Alessio are cleaning until 2.00.  So I only dropped off my luggage and asked Alessio where I might find some Baci candies.

 For how long have I missed the Conad grocery store right in my own neighborhood! Alessio had to get the map to show me where it is. It's just steps from Ponte Vecchio and all those thousands of tourists.

When I entered I was shocked. This Conad is a treasure-trove of fresh fruits and vegetables, a pastry counter with Baba!  I bought eight Baba in Cremoma to take home. Also in the store, a cheese and salame counter, freshly baked breads, fresh meat, dairy, prepackaged seafood salad (octopus! my favorite!) pasta, piadina, candy, plastic containers, soaps, household goods, wine and liquor. Also, near the checkout, a few books. 

Believe it or not, I only saw several American (students) shopping there. The tourists, so close, but shopping instead for gold and jewelry. To me, these store items are the true gems here. 

With two plastic shopping bags full to the brim (35€), I headed back to the hotel, dropped off the bags.  I had bought a quart of milk (to go with pizza Marta packed for me), pasta, chocolates, piadina, bag clips and a plastic container for the Baba. 

I gathered up napkins, milk and my Cremona lunch of pizza and apple strudel and walked  to Ponte Trinità bridge.  Leaning against the statue at the far end of the bridge, I ate lunch under the warm sun. I checked my iPhone for the temperature. 77 degrees F with clear blue skies makes a perfect day. 

I always bring a little folder full of information of places I want to see.  I had a map I printed for a nearby landmark which I've never visited: Munstermann Farmacia (Pharmacy). It's located at the next bridge down from Ponte Trinità.  I walked in that direction. The pharmacy was much tinnier than I expected. I bought two gifts of lemon scented hand lotion.

Old Munstermann

Just a few more steps down the street, I stopped to visit Chiesa Ognisanti. I lit a candle and sat quietly for 20 minutes. This church is associated with an order of monks. I noticed a hooded monk was sitting behind the door when I entered. It was a strange arrangement, sort of a Dutch door with glass and he was almost hidden from view.

Chiesa Ognissanti Information

I took pictures of art by Botticelli and Ghirlandaio. I recently read the cross by Giotto was just returned here, to its original location.  Fabulous works of art.

 I wish I had the means. I could really get lost here in Italy. So many things to study and see.  Alessio did check my two lotto tickets this afternoon online and I didn't win! Cost was 3€ each. I bought them in Cremona. 

I walked around this area, which hosts many art and framing shops. I entered one shop which had the name Faustini because I had a childhood friend with this last name.  I inquired, but they knew of no relatives in the USA.  There were no tourists in this part of town. I stopped at an art supply store to see about getting a tube to bring back the very large poster of Alessandro which the students and I liberated from a wall after his memorial. I did not buy a tube. I don't know why, it was on my list. 

Around 3.30 pm decided it was time to get the stress of packing over with. Back in my room, I unpacked and repacked everything.  With my travel scale I saw I was underweight with each bag. 22 k for my normal bag and 13 for the second bag. It was then I noticed the art tube, leaning in the corner.

I ran out to thank Alessio. He said, " I hope it's ok. The poster would have become wrinkled in transit without the tube. The tube was left here, it's used." They keep a collection of odds and ends for recycling when guests have a need.

When I go to Cremona I always leave new purchases and things I won't need at the hotel in Firenze.  When I return, my items are waiting for me in my room. I had left Alessandro's poster bound with a hair-tie.

My heart really broke when I saw the label on the tube: Stem cell Association. Two years ago, the doctors wanted to give Alessandro stem cells, but he was never well enough to accept them.

At four o'clock, I was done. Only travel clothes, hair dryer and cosmetic case were outside the bag. I washed up, changed into the dress I last wore for Alessandro and went walking. I took the night key from Alessio and as I was leaving, Asumi and Alessio gave me a parting gift, from Santa Maria Novella Farmacia. I didn't go there this trip. SMN Farmacia is a magical place. 

 I stopped in at a new restaurant to make 8.00 dinner reservations. Alessandro's student Sara and her friend Simone will be taking the train from Arezzo and we're spending the evening together.

It was wonderful to see Sara. Her friend Simone is sweetheart. He is a journalist for radio and written news. It's his dream to work for a large news organization. His English is passable but he knows for writing in English he needs to work in it. He's looking and interviewing as often as possible for an opportunity. 

Sara chose this restaurant for us:  Hostaria il desco (Via delle terme, 23/r).

It's near my hotel and she used to eat here at lunchtime when she was an intern at Ferragamo. The food was fantastic. I need to come here again. Time to get out of my comfort zone and try new places. 

When we sat down, immediately, the server poured white wine. We choose an appetizer I've never seen before. 

Before the appetizer, we were all served tiny bowls of split pea called Passato di piselli. Buonissimo!

 

The appetizer were doughnut hole sized balls of pizza dough, quickly deep fried, not greasy at all. They're served in a paper absorbent cone, on an olive wood board, with a small dish of stracchino soft cheese and thin slices of prosciutto. This prosciutto was a drier type and sliced thicker. Cut the bread ball in half, spread a teaspoon of cheese, wrap ball in part of a slice of prosciutto, then eat with fingers. Yumm. We each had two. 

Sara told me after the earthquakes so much cheese feel off the aging racks. People were told if they wanted some cheese, they could drive to the Parma region and pick up a round of cheese. The cheese cannot be sold but it can be given away.  In Cremona, Primo told me most of the cheese, which takes two years to mature, will be given to pigs. Pigs who are raised for prosciutto are fed this type of cheese, normally.

Simone and I both choose Rice with Gorgonzola. It was not labeled as risotto.  Sara had Bici with porcini and black truffles. It smelled so good. We were too full to even share a dessert. With Sara's caffé the waiter brought a plate of biscotti. I had to confess I had earlier eaten a Baba while I was transferring them to a plastic container, while packing. 

Dinner was only 33€. I had told them ahead of time that it was to be my treat. They had train ticket expenses and they would be getting home at midnight.

At 10 pm we walked in the direction of the train station. Sara loves Firenze at night. I agree, it was peaceful to walk without the crowds. The Italians come out and the tourists are snuggled in at their hotels. 

We passed the street artists, finishing up their artwork which will be washed away during night street cleaning. The street musicians, a group I've seen before were playing. The night air was cool and the moon was almost full. There always seems to be magic in the Italian night air, no matter where I am.

~~~.~~~May 1~~~.~~~

My alarm was set for 4 am this morning. I slept really well last night for 5 hours.  

This trip is closed now. I'm on an Alitalia flight, my first time. In Italian, ali means wings. I was worried my 7.10 flight from Firenze to Rome would not give me enough time to make the transfer. Alessio assured me a transfer in Rome is far easier than in Paris. He was right. The Rome airport is well marked. There is shopping right up to the gates.  The gates are dispersed amongst the shops. As I navigated through the terminal, I realized was circling when I passed Ferragamo for the second time.

I checked my flight printout and saw ‘no in flight meals.’ I made a quick stop and bought a prosciutto panino for take-away. Cost 4.20 €

When I boarded the plan I asked the stewardess if it was true, no meal? She was horrified. I showed her the printout. "It's a mistake! We even serve ice cream," she said. 

There is plenty of food. Not the quality of Air France. I chose pasta ( not beef) for lunch. I only ate the cut kiwi and pineapple along with my sandwich. Dessert was an ice cream cone! A cute idea. They've given us pretzels and later a cream cheese and olive sandwich. The plane is really clean and for some reason I don't feel a pull of gravity like I always do on Air France. I think the seats are better designed.

After the first meal, the aisles were crowded with visiting people! Also different from Air France, at one point I saw a large tray of red wine filled glasses being carried down the aisle.

I've watched a darling Italian movie, without subtitles: Benvenuti al Nord. I need to find a tutor. I understood a lot, but I want more.

The movie is about the different life styles in the South and North. So many stereotypes! I laughed out loud when the southern mama packed a full prosciutto leg in her son's luggage before his trip to the North.

When I check through customs in LAX I've learned to say I study in Italy. I never mention family. It's the key word which will send me straight to the agricultural check line at LAX, where they will look to see if I too have a full prosciutto!